In the ever-changing world of fashion, ten years is an impressive run. Just ask Richard Chai, who celebrated a decade of his namesake line on Thursday to kick off New York Fashion Week with a vibrant, effortless collection that marked a new peak for the easy, urbane vibe the designer has become known for. Working with a wide range of colors, fabrics, and prints, Chai presented what he called an “individual cast of characters,” each one a powerfully unique statement, but all of them clearly a cohesive product of the designer’s rich imagination. There was the sharp geometry of a fluttering halter top in shimmering violet and white worn over mesh biker shorts, the crazy kaleidoscope print the jagged across flowing dresses, and the bright shine of a closing gown in a swirling patchwork of sequins. The guys had plenty of options to choose from as well, from aggressive Bauhaus stripes and a swinging gray trench coat to jackets in a sour shade of acid yellow.
The feeling overall was of an unstudied nonchalance. Shoulder straps slouched, shirts were tied—in the designer’s own style—around the waist, jackets were bunched up and carried in hand. Chai has over the years established himself as a creator of clothes that engage without pushing too far, easy pieces that leave a mark but don’t scream for attention. There have been criticisms in recent seasons that his aesthetic tended to yield a certain sense of sameness, which made his new, eclectic direction all the more invigorating. It was reassuring proof that, even a decade on, Chai still has new ideas to explore for many more years to come.
Review by Jonathan Shia
Photos by Kirt Reynolds for models.com
