Meryll Rogge’s debut at Marni felt less like a reset and more like a recalibration. Rather than completely reinventing the house, she leaned into its late ’90s and early 2000s codes. Low-slung skirts — some embellished — structured A-line dresses, and intentionally clashing mixed prints set the tone, while outerwear did much of the talking, from textured jacquard trenches to cheetah, leather, and plush shearling. Cast by Piergiorgio Del Moro, Top Newcomer Chloe Paredes opened the show, her first time ever opening a runway, in a look that signaled what was to follow. Rogge threaded utility and sportswear with nylon dresses in warm sand tones and elongated lace-up boots reminiscent of cleats, grounding the collection in a more lived-in ecosystem. Knitwear played a strong supporting role, layered over vintage-leaning plaid shirts, styled by Tamara Rothstein in her first collaboration with the brand. A deliberate awkwardness in proportion ran throughout, as Rogge revisited styling ideas that have circulated on runways in recent seasons, like underpants on Betsy Gaghan and socks paired with pointy toe heels. The accessories stood out as well: structured top-handle bags in olive, hazelnut brown, and jet black, and long necklaces with gold embellishments that carried an almost rustic, handmade feel. The Marni woman here felt in motion, dressed in looks that could move seamlessly from day to night without losing their character.
