Jonathan Anderson presented a romantic botanical vision rooted in construction and craft for his debut haute couture collection at Dior. With initials invites inspired by the cyclamen flowers John Galliano once gifted him after viewing his first Dior ready-to-wear collection, nature became both the collection’s symbol and structure. The show notes summed it up simply, “When you copy nature, you always learn something.” Given Christian Dior’s lifelong devotion to gardening, the collection felt like a thoughtful continuation of the house’s heritage. Cast by Ashley Brokaw, the show opened with Laura Kaiser in a sculptural gown that read as Anderson’s interpretation of the New Look, defined by a sharply cinched waist, circular hemline, and restrained bow detail. Throughout, Anderson emphasized shape and proportion, creating garments that felt architectural yet light. A palette that shifted from soft pastels to crisp monochrome reinforced this balance. Floral motifs were integrated into asymmetrically ruched dresses, including a standout look worn by Sara Caballero, carrying a living plant. At the same time, sculpted coats with sculptural necklines and a reimagined Bar jacket extended into a sweeping maxi coat. Rather than leaning on overt embellishment, Anderson let proportion, volume, and line drive the drama, underscoring his interest in silhouette over spectacle. Accessories completed the narrative with precision. Cyclamen flowers were reimagined as earrings and ear muffs, the Lady Dior appeared in emerald crocodile-effect leather, and and Anderson continued to build on his legendary surreal handbag arsenal with a new long grass clutch entry. Mona Tougaard closed the show as the bride in a delicate, petal-finished gown, offering a quiet, romantic finale. With this debut, Anderson offers a considered reinterpretation of Dior’s codes, filtering the house’s historic silhouettes, structure, and relationship to nature through his own lens.
