Dawn Sterling on the Cultural Power of Nails

Dawn Sterling, Manicurist

Hometown: Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn, New York City
Based: New York City

How would you describe your work & what’s your trademark?
I would describe my work as culturally rooted and energy-driven. It exists somewhere between minimal and extravagant, always intentional. I see nails as an extension of the full visual story. Whether it’s for a red carpet, runway, or intimate portrait, they need to align with the mood, the silhouette, and the spirit of the person wearing them. My work draws from Brooklyn, hip-hop, heritage, and high fashion simultaneously. If I had to define a trademark, it would be precision in shape, custom color, and intentional versatility. I can move from architectural minimalism to something bold, and I don’t repeat formulas; I respond to the moment. At its core, my work is about precision, cultural influence, and understanding that nails are the final punctuation mark to a look.

What sparked your interest in nail art, and was there a defining moment that made you pursue it professionally?
My introduction to nails was almost accidental, but I do not believe in accidents. I believe in alignment. I was working at a nail salon on Fulton Street in Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn. It was one of the busiest salons in the neighborhood. I was the only African American woman working there; everyone else was Vietnamese. At the time, I only did pedicures, and I started noticing something. The nail technicians I worked alongside were making significantly more than I was. Back then, you either did feet or you did nails, and nails were where the money was. I kept asking the owner to teach me, but he was reluctant. That curiosity, and honestly, that hunger, was the beginning of me realizing this was not just a side job. It could be something bigger. My family did not see it that way. Because it was not taxed, because it was not “official,” they wanted me to get what they considered a real job. I took the postal exam and was hired by the New York City Post Office to train as a truck driver, which felt full circle because my grandmother had retired from the Post Office. Everyone was proud; it was stable and secure.

However, on the very first day I was supposed to report for paid training, I got a call offering me a trip to Los Angeles to work a gifting suite at the BET Awards. They would fly me out and cover my hotel, but there was no rate. No guaranteed money. Just exposure. I had never been to Los Angeles before, and I made a decision that changed my life. I did not tell anyone. I did not show up at the post office, and I got on that plane. Sitting in that room doing manicures with regular polish, this was before gels even existed, I watched a line of people wait for something that seemed so small. I watched how something as simple as a manicure could shift someone’s energy. The joy. The confidence. The transformation. In that moment, I knew I was not meant to drive a truck. I was meant to build something with my hands; that was the defining moment. I chose uncertainty over security, and I chose art over fear.

What non-fashion/beauty influences (art, film, literature, music, etc.) shape your creative perspective?
My creative perspective comes from everything around me, not just fashion or beauty. Growing up in Brooklyn, heavily influenced by many of the hip-hop artists from Bed-Stuy, I was immersed in a mix of street culture, music, and visual storytelling. Hip-hop shaped my rhythm, my sense of boldness, and my appreciation for detail, from the beats to the fashion to the attitude. I am inspired by architecture and the way space and structure communicate energy. Art history gives me texture and context, and film teaches me about storytelling and mood. Music, literature, and the women and men in my neighborhood all feed my vision. Every manicure I create is informed by layers of culture, history, and lived experience. I begin with energy and emotion, and that foundation allows me to translate these influences into something tangible with nails.

You’ve worked with Louis Vuitton Men’s since 2021. How would you describe your collaborative process with the brand/team?
My collaboration with Louis Vuitton has been extraordinary. Pharrell Williams, Louis Vuitton’s men’s creative director, shares the overall vision, the mood, and the narrative he wants to convey. Then stylist Matthew Henson, works closely with me to discuss textures, details, and how to translate that story through nails. What makes this collaboration rare is the creative freedom I am given. I am encouraged to expand on their vision, add my own concepts, and help bring the story to life in a way that feels intentional and aligned. That level of trust and autonomy is uncommon in this industry, and I am deeply grateful for it.

What’s your process for conceptualizing? Do you start with references, emotions, or something else entirely?
When I’m working with designers and stylists, the stylist plays a huge role in how the story is ultimately conveyed to the viewer. My job is not to make it about me; it is to serve the story. I carefully consider what to add, what to enhance, and sometimes what to scale back, based on the narrative, the product, and the individual wearing it. I begin by considering the clothes, the set design, the location, and the talent. From there, I determine how the nails can complement the look, complete the energy, and amplify the story without overpowering it. It is always a collaborative process, centered on balancing, refining, and translating the vision into a cohesive and intentional whole.

What would you say are the main differences between creating nail art for shows, editorials, and campaigns?
The main difference lies in intention and context. For shows, I individualize each model based on their outfit, the textures, the accessories, and the energy of the talent. It’s about making every look feel cohesive while ensuring it reads clearly on the runway. Editorials are about mood and storytelling, about capturing the right energy for the image. Everything is built to create something striking and memorable. Campaigns require precision and alignment with the product. I focus on knowing when to add and when to scale back so the nails enhance the product and the story without distracting from it. My motto is always to make it feel elevated and seamless. Expensive, expensive, expensive. That’s the goal in every shot.

You have worked with A$AP Rocky, Bella Hadid, and Hailey Bieber. How do you adjust your approach depending on each client’s specific needs?
I listen first, and then I adapt. Each client has their own style, energy, and vision, and my job is to tell the story they are in. My ultimate goal is to make every client feel safe and confident, knowing that no matter what, they are in the best hands.

What other jobs have you had?
I have only ever had one other job, which was working at an immigration law office for one summer. I ended up getting fired because my boss would check my computer every day to see what I was looking at online, and I was on Sally’s trying to figure out which nail polish I wanted to buy. I’ve been working in nail salons since I was 16.

What’s one thing outside of your work that you would like people to know about you?
One thing I would like people to know is that I am deeply spiritual and incredibly grateful. I approach life with intention and presence, and I am always eager to learn from people, experiences, and the world around me. That curiosity and gratitude inform not only my creativity, but the way I live each day. It keeps me grounded, inspired, and connected to the energy in everything I do.

Who do you think is one to watch?
I think everyone is worth watching. I love seeing the evolution of the nail space, and I am so grateful to have played a part in helping bring value to it. I also want to give a major shout-out to the nail artists who came before me, Bernadette Thompson and Sheril Bailey, along with all the other women who paved the way.

Selected Work

Miss Sixty Summer 25 Campaign
For this shoot, I flew to Los Angeles to work on it. Bella (Hadid) is a friend of mine and one of the most incredible human beings I know. She and I custom-make every new color she wears. She is so in tune with everything she does, and she allows me the freedom to be creative. Working with her is always the best because I know we are going to create something no one else has. For this particular shoot, we did a French manicure, which is one of my all-time favorite looks.

Louis Vuitton x Murakami Re-edition Collection
I’m always inspired by Zendaya and Law Roach, I’ve worked with them over the years, and they’re always at the highest level in everything. Zendaya is a dream to work with, incredibly stunning & Law is phenomenal. This was my first women’s Louis Vuitton campaign, and it was truly one for the books.

The Perfect Magazine A$AP Rocky Zine 2025 Covers
​​This cover is one of my all-time favorites. A$AP Rocky is a genius. He is brilliant, extremely fabulous, and everything looks great on him. He truly loves his manicure. We have a very specific way of doing his manicure, and with him, I love what it represents: a well-groomed man and the importance of that. He allows me to be part of these major, incredible projects, and I am forever grateful.

Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2024 Men’s Show Hong Kong
This image features a beautiful magenta custom print with a gold 3D outline. Working on Louis Vuitton with Pharrell Williams, styled by Matthew Henson, has completely changed my life. The representation on the men’s runway has shifted, and we have played a major role in that change. There is always nail art, texture, color, and shape in the men’s Louis Vuitton shows. It has amplified the artistic perspective on men’s manicures; men are excited to collaborate with me and no longer afraid to push the limits of nail art. Pharrell always allows me to come to the table with my ideas, and Matthew Henson walks me through every fabric, every texture, every look he puts together. We come together to create the nail story, and it has been one of the most incredible experiences of my life.