Dolce & Gabbana S/S 13

Posted by stephan | September 26th, 2012

Dolce & Gabanna S/S 2013

Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2013
Sicily, its heritage and culture are never far from the minds of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Over the years the designers have looked to the Sicilian way of life countless times for inspiration, whether it is recreating the ethos of Visconti films on the runway, or putting Monica Belluci’s innate sensuality to good use in advertising campaigns, interpretations of all things Sicily are ingrained into the Dolce iconography. Spring finds the designers revisiting their failsafe source material, but offering a new twist, one filled with bright color and a vibrant selection of prints culled from traditional ceramics.

This was a collection defined by its details, particularly the idiosyncratic ones. Vases, frescos and other Catlagirone art history references found their way onto the body via nipped-waist dresses and skirts, while graphic stripes appeared on jackets and jumpsuits seemingly cut to resemble vintage bathing costumes. In a humorous turn, barely there mini-dresses bore logos and fringed details informed by sacks of doppio zero flour, a deliberately outlandish touch and one that should land those dresses in every s/s editorial.

There was something kitschy about the whole affair, but not in a way that was unpleasant. The Dolce woman has always been passionate and sensual, but this season’s offbeat flair moves their heroine into fresh territory; she’s still a siren, but she’s good for a laugh or two as long as she’s in on the joke. Naysayers may find the explosive combination of print, pattern, glitter, glitz and glamour all too much, but they’re forgetting the golden rule, finchè c’è vita c’è speranza – where there’s life, there is hope.

There was plenty of life on the runway, especially during the finale; all the stops were pulled out, not an inch of tulle was spared. The framed corsets on Zuzanna Bijoch and Bette Franke, were the kind of sumptuously decadent pieces that exist only on catwalks and in museums. It is hard to imagine a woman wearing the exaggerated proportions, or delicately boned corsets in real life, but perhaps that was the point. The D&G re-imagining of Sicily is a fashion fantasy, one that remains relevant and palatable after all these years.

Designer: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana

Text: Janelle Okwodu
Photos: Dirk Alexander for models.com

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12 Comments

  1. Erin says:

    Blackface. Epic Fail.

  2. RHONA POBLETE says:

    THE BEST

  3. H says:

    This collection left me w/ mixed feelings..
    I find it extremely disappointing that such talented designers, such as Dolce and Gabbana, would stoop to such levels in order to sell clothes. Regardless of whether the earrings/collection were overtly degrading, the fact that they would choose to sell something that for many would be deemed offensive, in order to profit, is exploitation. I feel like If they truly believed that Afro/Caribbean culture was “beautiful” and deserved to be celebrated, then you would have seen a number of black models walking down the catwalk.. That was the hugest mockery. I find it offensive that they used all WHITE models with the exception of five ASIAN models. If the intent was to celebrate African heritage why not include African models? And to think things were actually changing…

  4. Fashion Face says:

    Beautiful! Beautiful! Always a delight! Love colors and style!

  5. Frankie says:

    Lovely and I loved the details.

    https://twitter.com/Frankie_Youje

  6. SWP says:

    @H I agree with you!

  7. GroupHug says:

    Beautiful collection, and really great photos!!

    @H: it’s a shame there is no black models but maybe before jumping to conclusion you should have read the review. If you had ever been to Sicily you would realize the references are not Afro/Caribbean, they are typical Sicilian designs and motifs. Sicily is quite close to Africa and has over 3,000 years of history.

    Keep an open mind, not everything is black & white.

  8. H says:

    @GroupHug I have never been to Sicily so maybe you have the upper hand?
    As an African American I find these images racist. No matter what their intent or reference was. Reproducing racist images that demean the people represented is a racist act. Using racist images without intending to invoke race is ridiculous. Intent doesn’t matter. I understand these motifs represent European paintings but still feel as though old offensive caricatures on products should not be revived. And even though they’re not necessarily seen as offensive in Italy, let’s look at the bigger picture here.. I digress.

    *If you’re not familiar, you should research, the “mammy” images propagandized about Black women and the mythology of Black women being extremely sexualized (“hot-to-trot”) women. (though this collection references the Sicilian tradition of Blackamoor)

    On another note, the photography here is delightful! So vivid and crisp.

  9. Sheena says:

    This is absolutely racist. African/African American women are not beautiful enough to walk your runway but their ancestors can dangle from your ear? Wow, I am so disappointing. Seriously.

  10. daniel82 says:

    So beautiful!

  11. Bruce Edwin says:

    D&G are so rad, these pieces are amazing as are the models- love

  12. Robert says:

    Sorry Stefano and Dominico!
    I love you guys! But you’re becoming complacent.

    What the fuck is going on? They used to be so sexy, sultry, avant-garde. I had high expectations for this collection but then I remembered the woman’s and men’s shows share the same theme! -.-

    This Sicilian heritage thing can stop now! THANK YOU.

    The print is too much, no silhouette.

    Dolce & Gabbana,……

    GET BACK TO YOUR GLORY.

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