Dior Homme F/W 2013

The impeding arrival of Hedi Slimane’s first men’s collection at Saint Laurent seemed to provide an impetus for Kris Van Assche to push above and beyond at the former’s old stomping grounds of Dior Homme. For Fall 2013, Van Assche presented a slick, sleek, no-nonsense collection full of the trim suiting and stark, modernist pieces the house is best known for. Working with a pared-back palette of mostly black, white, gray, and navy, Van Assche opened with a bang in the form of Ben Allen’s zippered blazer, an item that struck a clear futuristic note without coming off as hokey. That first burst was followed by a series of slim, perfectly-cut jackets that zipped or buckled with military precision, although the look was more urban warrior than war veteran. There were nods at the season’s Bauhaus trend, as in Kristoffer Hasslevall’s color-blocked trench coat, or the graphic geometric outlines on Malcolm de Ruiter’s jumper. It was, without question, a collection with a mission, one that worked wonders with techy fabrics and had a clear and distinct vision of a cool and exacting future—understandable, given Van Assche’s use of the film Gattaca as inspiration. The world of Dior Homme, as with all designers, might not be for everyone, but Van Assche made a compelling argument for his spartan, austere aesthetic, as precise and measured as a clock ticking ever forward.

Text: Jonathan Shia
Photos: Dirk Alexander for models.com

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