Dolce & Gabanna S/S 2013
Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer 2013
Sicily, its heritage and culture are never far from the minds of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Over the years the designers have looked to the Sicilian way of life countless times for inspiration, whether it is recreating the ethos of Visconti films on the runway, or putting Monica Belluci’s innate sensuality to good use in advertising campaigns, interpretations of all things Sicily are ingrained into the Dolce iconography. Spring finds the designers revisiting their failsafe source material, but offering a new twist, one filled with bright color and a vibrant selection of prints culled from traditional ceramics.
This was a collection defined by its details, particularly the idiosyncratic ones. Vases, frescos and other Catlagirone art history references found their way onto the body via nipped-waist dresses and skirts, while graphic stripes appeared on jackets and jumpsuits seemingly cut to resemble vintage bathing costumes. In a humorous turn, barely there mini-dresses bore logos and fringed details informed by sacks of doppio zero flour, a deliberately outlandish touch and one that should land those dresses in every s/s editorial.
There was something kitschy about the whole affair, but not in a way that was unpleasant. The Dolce woman has always been passionate and sensual, but this season’s offbeat flair moves their heroine into fresh territory; she’s still a siren, but she’s good for a laugh or two as long as she’s in on the joke. Naysayers may find the explosive combination of print, pattern, glitter, glitz and glamour all too much, but they’re forgetting the golden rule, finchè c’è vita c’è speranza – where there’s life, there is hope.
There was plenty of life on the runway, especially during the finale; all the stops were pulled out, not an inch of tulle was spared. The framed corsets on Zuzanna Bijoch and Bette Franke, were the kind of sumptuously decadent pieces that exist only on catwalks and in museums. It is hard to imagine a woman wearing the exaggerated proportions, or delicately boned corsets in real life, but perhaps that was the point. The D&G re-imagining of Sicily is a fashion fantasy, one that remains relevant and palatable after all these years.
Designer: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana
Text: Janelle Okwodu
Photos: Dirk Alexander for models.com