Photo by Betty Sze
While fashion was all abuzz about Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, and Thom Browne’s mass exodus to Paris, the return of Tom Ford to New York, and the continued reign of Marc Jacobs and Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, there was an unexpected fervor from the rising new guard of design talent. We took a look at the creatives fresh to the calendar that are making space for themselves.
Christian Cowan
It was a sparkle showdown at Indochine as up-and-coming Christian Cowan rolled out his second showing at New York Fashion Week. Backed by Paper Magazine and styled by Patti Wilson, the design favorite of Cardi B and Paris Hilton delivered pieces that fit perfectly within the spectrum between those two worlds. Streetwear elements blended with over-the-top rich glamour with sequined tuxedos, cropped hoodies and fur-lined jackets, and a NY Loves Me logo emblazoned throughout.
Matthew Adams Dolan
For Spring 2018, Australian-American designer Matthew Adams Dolan expanded his oversized range by delving into new workwear waters. The result was an elongated approach to button-ups, cardigans, suiting, and Canadian tuxedos galore. Being able to abide by the dress code without looking like a square, it’s no wonder why Rihanna is a fan.
Yajun
Former Parsons student and designer Ya Jun Melody Lin unleashed down the runway a neutral palette collection for Spring 2018 that included elements of cocooning proportions, asymmetrical lengths, and cutouts that traversed between streetwear, bondage, and menswear references. After a win from the Parsons x Kering Empowering Imagination competition, it’ll be interesting to see how far the Chinese designer takes her exploration of fabric development and textile innovation.
Vaquera
There’s been design duos a plenty but the latest underground brand Vaquera is run by a foursome. Bryn Taubensee, Claire Sully, David Moses, and Patric DiCaprio’s raw aesthetic, street casting, and unruly spirit took on the topic of a Los Angeleno identity crisis this season with wonky silhouettes, mismatched patterning and a wonderful terry robe closing look that was the perfect blend of being fashionable and lazy. Oh and also “Fuck Death”.
Colovos
With Shayne Oliver’s entry into Helmut Lang, its design predecessors Nicole and Michael Colovos launched their first runway show for their eponymous label. Minimal, structured and modern it was an effortless showing of pieces that could translate immediately to a downtown’s woman wardrobe.
Eric Schlösberg
Eric Schlösberg collection might have been hosted at the Park Plaza, but uptown pretense it was not. Brazenly inspired by Pamela Anderson and Tommy Lee, satin two-piece sets, acid wash jeans, a covetable lace, halter neck jumpsuit, and an explicit slogan that doesn’t have to do with drinking set the cheeky tone of the collection.
Maki Oh
Nigerian label Maki Oh has been on everyone’s lips after multiple appearances in the hit HBO show Insecure. After a brief hiatus, Amaka “Maki” Osakwe returned her collection to NYFW earlier this year and her latest showing exclusively featured models of color. Inspired by memories of childhood, the brand playfully incorporated bright pops of tangerine and chartreuse along with her traditional adire print. Beauty continued the childlike thematic with bold berry lips, highlighted skin as if models came from the playground, and the range of curly hair pinned with gold bobby pins. Models even played musical chairs for a fresh end to a week of new talent.
