Duckie Brown F/W 13 Show
The message out of Milan and Paris for Fall 2013 was minimalism, a trend cemented here in New York by Duckie Brown’s strong, pared-down collection. The duo of Steven Cox and Daniel Silver have sent some memorably loud looks down their runways in the past, but this season was all about clean lines and smart cuts. The pair’s talent for playing with proportion remained intact, however, and that guideline added a rigor and structure to a collection that was otherwise shocking in its appearance of simplicity. The message here was layering, with a uniquely Duckie twist, with long overcoats under short jackets and trousers peeking out under other trousers. There was also, noticeably, a vibrant and rich palette, camel and plum with shots of hot pink and electric blue. Pants stayed slim and strictly pleated as jackets ballooned from skinny to oversized and back again, a hint at the subtle variations that worked underneath the surface details. Pick the show apart, and there were numerous strong statement pieces, like Robert Laby’s denim jacket or Jake Shortall’s hooded bomber. Branko Maselj wore two highly desirable outerwear items at once, a baggy play on a varsity jacket over a nubbly red topcoat. In terms of Duckie Brown’s continued experiments with the structures of menswear, this time around was an unqualified success.