Z Zegna Spring/Summer 2013
Times are tough now in Europe, with the majority of the continent weighed down by the demands of austerity, and that sense of sobriety carried over to a Z Zegna collection that burst with shimmering colors, but had a sleek sort of seriousness not often seen this season. In his second outing for the label, designer Paul Surridge took inspiration from the neon installation artist Dan Flavin, working with a palette of cold colors that seemed to shine with a flickering, uncertain light. There was a pleasing looseness to the clothes—both in attitude and cut—with a number of wide blazers that looked like grown-up cousins of the short-sleeved shirt. But despite the abundance of shorts and the easygoing knit- and outerwear, there was an overall buttoned-up feel to the collection, reinforced by the uniform round polarized sunglasses each model wore, a touch that added both a retro vibe and a futuristic chill to the pieces. If the clothes lacked the sort of cheer that has been so prevalent this season in Milan, they were still proof of a talent with a cohesive vision, which should be enough in itself to lift the spirits.