Calvin Klein F/W 12

All Images Betty Sze for

The Calvin Klein show is equal parts who’s who celebrity gala and full-scale fashion event. With Hollywood starlets and photography royalty lining the front row, there are moments when it is hard to tear your eyes away and actually look at the clothes. If you could tear your eyes away from Rooney Mara for a moment, you’d notice the chicly minimalist direction Francisco Costa was headed in for fall. Playing with proportion, texture and unexpected splashes of tangerine, Costa created a look that was worlds away from those diaphanous beige slip dresses that dominated his runway for spring. This season’s Calvin girl is older, wiser and a whole lot stronger. Costa looked to modern art for his seasonal motivation, citing MOCA’s “Under the Big Black Sun: California Art 1974–1981” exhibit as an influence.

In keeping with the season’s trend towards re-worked wool, Costa showcased glazed, laser cut and needlepunched variants on his runway. The pieces that really got us going were the ones that broke form with a touch of color or eye-catching sequin detailing. We weren’t the only ones to notice the onyx embroidered number on Kati Nescher: both campaign face Lara Stone and Miss Mara seemed taken by its innate glamour.

STYLING Camilla Nickerson
CASTING Maida & Rami
HAIR Guido Palau
MAKEUP Pat McGrath

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