Introduced to style through the iconography of Dazed and Confused, Ellie Grace Cumming has forged a career suffused with the instinct and ingenuity that can only come from immersing yourself in the scene. Born in Edinburgh, the stylist and editor’s interest in fashion was piqued by photographs of English singer-songwriter Siouxsie Sioux’s Umbro shorts and PVC thigh-high boot combinations. Her career trajectory was launched after graduating from London College of Fashion and assisting renowned fashion editor Alister Mackie and legendary stylist Katy England. Since that starting point, Cumming cemented her role as a fashion polymath through her editorial work for storied indies like Dazed, Re-Edition and Dust before landing a role as Men’s Fashion Director of AnOther Magazine. She’s fostered connections with luminaries like Steven Meisel, Sarah Piantadosi, Kim Jones, and Alasdair Mclellan, and has contributed to the lookbooks, campaigns, and runway shows of Dior, GmbH, Fendi, and Amiri. Inspired by the cultural landscapes of her experiences in Edinburgh, Cambridge, and London, Cumming has alchemized her surroundings and influences to create a distinct style narrative that has particularly elevated the menswear scene. In tandem with her role as AnOther Magazine’s Fashion Director at Large, Cumming was recently appointed as Editor-in-Chief to helm the re-launch of AnOther Man Magazine. She spoke with Models.com contributor Nia Shumake to discuss her career journey, creative choices in menswear and beyond, and finding inspiration offline.
What sparked your interest in styling?
Siouxsie Sioux wearing a combination of Umbro shorts with thigh high PVC boots made me realise that styling is something so intrinsic to the individual and needs to complement the wearer’s personal ethos as well as show your vision of the world through the medium of clothes.
Do you remember when you were first introduced to the craft?
I remember being so inspired by Dazed & Confused whilst I was at school which makes me proud to work with the same publishing house today.
I read your interview in 1Granary on surviving fashion as an introvert, what are some of the pros and cons of navigating the industry as a self-described introvert and how were you able to assert yourself when starting out?
Consistent hard work with integrity.
You’re based in London but originally from Edinburgh. I’d love to know if these two cities inform your work on any level.
The gothic architecture. I was born in Edinburgh and grew up in Cambridge, moving to London at 18. All three cities have a fantastical element that encourage dreaming.
How does your love of music shape your creative work?
For as long as I can remember I’ve found subculture aesthetics inspiring, fashion in particular is intrinsically linked to music through aesthetic codes and tribes. Sound itself can dramatically alter the entire experience of how you feel and perceive what’s in front of you, so I can’t help but acknowledge and be creatively inspired by it. As such it’s always present in my work, either as a direct reference or more subliminally channelled.
You reintroduced the biannual print issue of AnOther Man with cover star Mike Faist in Loewe, Nigo in Kenzo, and models Mamuor Majeng and Dugyeong Kim in Margiela Artisanal and Dior respectively. How do you think these brands and icons represent the new direction of the publication?
For the first issue we wanted to establish who AnOther Man represents in 2024, whilst addressing the themes of ‘Cult’ and ‘Provoke’. Here fashion, film, art, photography and culture are all intertwined and related, working in counterpoint and provocation to one another.
What have you learned from your former position as Fashion Director of AnOther that you’ve taken into your new editor-in-chief role?
Communication, collaboration and to always trust and follow my instincts.
How do you navigate the role of editor-in-chief at AnOther Man while working with other publications and brands? Does it speak to the current era we’re in regarding editorial?
Magazines move within the waves of cultural conversations. This brings excitement and joy, being part of the greater social conversation as well as within the fashion industry.
My first and last thoughts most days are the magazine. It never stops in a beautiful way, there is always work to be done whether it is on commissions or my own stories, digital extensions and roll outs, exhibitions or events. When I am working with brands the magazine experience enables me to offer editorial ideas to help their communication and commissioning be it photography, casting, collaborator suggestions from people on my radar.
You’ve worked alongside Kim Jones, Peter Dundas, Steven Meisel, Nick Knight, Jackie Nickerson, and Alasdair McLellan – what have you learned about collaboration throughout your career?
Be open, present and fearless. Put the work in, research, engage and communicate.
Who are your favourite up-and-coming menswear designers that should be on our radar?
Independent designers making consistent great work in an increasingly difficult climate that I love are GmbH, Anonymous Club, Random Identities, Stefan Cooke, Craig Green, Willy Chavarria, Kiko Konstavinov, Grace Wales Bonner, Olly Shinder and Martine Rose.
In a fast-paced environment where trends come and go, you prefer patience and exploration offline. What recent discoveries or mediums inspire you at the moment?
Physical experience for me is incredibly important and stimulating, the connection of humanity coming together. Performance – art, music, dance, theatre, cinema – human expression.
Social media has almost eliminated the concept of regional aesthetics, how do you think visual creatives can distinguish themselves?
“Those who do not remember the past are condemned to repeat it.” Genesis P-Orridge
“Be yourself because everyone else is taken.” Oscar Wilde
We are all collectively living an experience of post future modernism, a mash up of everything in a completely new and exciting way. Embrace it at what feels comfortable for you in that moment, don’t be afraid to go offline or take time out or slow a project down if things are feeling overwhelmingly fast. Good work stands the test of time. Find your own authentic point of view on what your aesthetic is and celebrate that. Tell that story, not anyone else’s.
