Glenn Martens is no stranger to gimmicks. Diesel‘s F/W 2023 collection featured models strutting around a massive pile of 200,000 Diesel-branded Durex condoms, while the Spring 2024 show evolved into a full-blown rave for 7,000 attendees. The brand’s latest F/W 24 offering reflected an episode straight out of Black Mirror, showcasing a unique viewing experience blurring the lines between reality and virtuality. Before the collection’s debut, Diesel invited audiences to sign up for a three-day live stream on their website, providing an intimate glimpse into the show’s preparation process, from casting to styling and stage setup. This unprecedented access reflects Martens’ commitment to democratizing fashion. The show began without a traditional soundtrack, featuring a robotic voice counting down each model’s entrance. The announcer started by saying, “Sherry, go,” a nod to Sherry Shi, the opener, to start her walk. Her look featured a smoky button-down denim shirt with a tie-dye print, as we all know, Martens is skilled with denim.
Over 500 lucky viewers appeared on enormous screens via Zoom, prompting contemplation of the dynamics between the observer and the observed. The collection, styled by Martens’ longtime collaborator Ursina Gysi, showcased an array of faux fur coats and monochromatic ensembles with distressed accents, paying homage to rave culture while maintaining sleek tailoring. Notable looks included Adit Priscilla‘s cinched denim material coat and Alton Mason’s mustard overcoat. Fabric manipulation was evident throughout, with v-neck tanks, quilted puffers featuring iridescent fabric, and mesh dresses adorned with floral motifs, with one seen on Abény Nhial nodding to the upcoming Met Gala theme. The line-up cast by Anita Bitton included Top 50 models and Icons and even the movement director of the memorable Margiela Artisanal Spring 2024 Show, Pat Boguslawski. Luma Vitoria brought the show to a close, rounding out a collection that showcased Martens’ penchant for spectacle and the intersection between fashion, technology, and culture. With exclusive images by Sonny Photos take a look behind the scenes of the faux fur frenzy below.
