Fresh off an 8-hour rave and party-filled collection in Milan for Diesel, Glenn Martens, in a fusion of design and architectural artistry, redefined dynamic layering and fabric manipulation in his latest offering for Y/Project in Paris. With a surprising twist, Martens artfully crumpled and contorted denim, drawing inspiration from his hometown of Bruges, Belgium, and its architectural marvels. A signature element throughout Martens’ collections, hoods took center stage once again. The collection’s opening featured a nude hooded cape with a side opening, giving a peek of what was to come. Hoods continued to make a statement with dyed ruby and light brown textured denim hooded jackets, paired seamlessly with matching jeans adorned with silver buttons, creating an alluring layering effect. The color palette was diverse, ranging from monochromatic elegance to playful pastels. Silk and lace dresses and slit skirts in shades of salmon and black exemplified the collection’s feminine versatility. Additionally, Martens unveiled a captivating combination of fuchsia, hazel, and snowy white illusionary dresses in knit fabric.
The theme of twisted textures remained consistent, as seen in Maggie Maurer’s look, featuring a faded white two-piece long-sleeved top with a mini skirt that resembled the look of crumpled paper. This artistic twist extended to tops bearing the “Y/Project” logo and polo tops with a tucked-in collar effect. Layering emerged as a recurring motif, with Martens incorporating athletic shorts atop suit shorts, complemented by layered leather boots in tasteful shades of beige and black. Washed denim baggy jeans, as showcased on Isha Senghore, seamlessly contributed to the layered aesthetic. Y/Project’s accessories have always made a statement, and this collection was no exception. Drawing inspiration from insects and reptiles, Martens added a distinctive touch with a cockroach motif on a denim shirt, cockroach earrings, and serpent necklaces that served as chokers. Cast by Anita Bitton, the show featured a captivating finale by Pasha Harulia, who made her first appearance this fashion month, closing the show in a hooded, textured brown and teal ruched dress. Martens’ collections consistently delight, showcasing the limitless possibilities of textile manipulation.
