Vogue Polska has been embracing novelty in this new era spearheaded by editor-in-chief Ina Lekiewicz. For their November issue, Lekiewicz sought out British fashion designer Erdem to capture the early 20th century-inspired covers, a debut of sorts for Moralioglu, as this marks his first time behind the lens for a cover, let alone three. With an appreciation for folklore and a vintage collector himself, the designer brought on longtime collaborator Ib Kamara, whom he recalls as a “total force of nature” to amplify Moralioglu’s passion for the 20th century, specifically the bookends of the Victorian era and the 1970s. Moralioglu is no stranger to the former era as his recent 15th-anniversary collection can attest — the designer looked to English socialites Dame Edith Sitwell and Lady Ottoline Morrell for inspiration, both Victorian champions of individuality and the arts, with values Moralioglu strives for since “embracing individuality makes us who we all are.” Models.com spoke briefly to Moralioglu about exploring his photographic creativity, working alongside Ib Kamara, and diving into his new menswear division for Erdem.
Cover Credits
Photographer: Erdem
Fashion Stylist: Ib Kamara
Models: Florence Hutchings, Sienna King, Wang Han,
Lily Nova, and Ngozi Anene
Hair Stylist: Teiji Utsumi
Make Up:Thom Walker
Casting: Megan McCluskie
Production: Vladyslav Mykhnyuk, Lou Greenaway, Maria Dawkins
Retouch and post-production: Paul Drozdowski
The trifecta of Moralioglu, Ib Kamara, and Ina Lekiewicz picked Southside House in England to host the cover shoot featuring Florence Hutchings, Lily Nova, Ngozi Anene, Sienna King, and Wang Han. This wasn’t their first time working together as the three previously came together for Erdem’s FW ’21 collection earlier this year. The house owned by Ottoline Morrell’s lover, Axel Munthe, was the ideal backdrop for the shoot; filled with 17th-century heirlooms and giving off an airy ambiance it was the perfect combination of inspiration behind the images that merge effortlessly contemporary and vintage fashion.
Moralioglu started his love for photography and storytelling by capturing the making and essence of each of his shows through his Contax camera. As for the designer’s latest anniversary collection, he focused on encapsulating London’s historic spirit, in need of a boost due to the ongoing pandemic, and was heavily inspired by “enigmatic characters who lived on the peripheries between myth and reality—those that relished in standing out.” Before he starts the ideation process, Moralioglu focuses on evoking an emotion, “it’s always about an emotion…feeling something with each collection.”
“I’d see the men from the team in the studio wearing pieces from womenswear and there was that beautiful sense of fluidity. I also think that as many women will wear the men’s collection as men.”
Menswear was also on the mind of the creative director during the peak of the pandemic— in the last year, the designer was able to hone in to launch Erdem Man a natural evolution sparked from his initial womens’ collections. “I’d see the men from the team in the studio wearing pieces from womenswear and there was that beautiful sense of fluidity. I also think that as many women will wear the men’s collection as men.” Much is in store for Moralioglu as he expands and further taps into photography for, and beyond, his eponymous brand.
