Bianca Saunders Wins ANDAM
French fashion award ANDAM awarded its annual top prize to British designer, Bianca Saunders last week winning €300,000 and a year’s worth of mentoring from Balenciaga CEO and President, Cédric Charbit. Expanded to international designers based out of Paris for the first time, Saunders beat out Casablanca, Area, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Rokh, and Grace Wales Bonner selected by a jury of prestigious fashion peers including Phoebe Philo, Kerby Jean-Raymond, Giovanna Battaglia and more. On Instagram Saunders detailed, “This prestigious award has helped me realise my lifelong dream of showing in Paris. As well as continuing to establish Bianca Saunders as a global luxury fashion brand.” Along with the top prize, the runner-up Pierre Bergé Prize of €100,000 went to Kévin Nompeix and Florentin Glémarec of Egon Lab who created CO2 absorbing trousers to combat climate change; with the Accessories Prize and Innovation Prize of €50,000 each going to ASWAD and Spinnova, respectively.[VOGUE]
Couture Was Magical: What Went Down
After 4 years since the last show and the passing of its eponymous founder, Alaïa’s new era under Pieter Mulier’s watchful eye was a modern take on deference to the style codes the Maison was known for. The Belgian designer who was Raf Simons’ right hand at Jil Sander, Dior, and Calvin Klein showed nine couture looks along with ready-to-wear that will be in stores from December to May. Dialed up the laser cut body-con gowns, hooded looks, structured corset belts and supple fur coats were all on display on Anok Yai, Mica Argañaraz, Natasha Poly, Rianne Van Rompaey and Vittoria Ceretti. Later at 10 Avenue Georges V for Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia brought back couture to the house after 53 years showcasing impeccable, oversized tailoring, those signatured padded hips and fabric innovation with knited sweters made of metal and ‘feathered’ coat made of silk thread. Ella Emhoff made her couture debut walking at the renovated salon along with opener Eliza Douglas, Gwen Lu, and Suzi De Givenchy. Kim Jones’ second couture offering for Fendi came with a bang as Fall is always the haute fourrure strong suit. Supermodel heavy and shot by Call Me by Your Name director Luca Guadagnino, constant Jones muse Kate Moss opened along with her progeny Lila, Amber Valletta, Christy Turlington, Malgosia Bela, Mariacarla Boscono, and the surprising return of Paulina Porizkova.
Pyer Moss Couture Show Postponed
Mother Nature was on another level in New York as torrential rain barred Kerby Jean-Raymond’s first couture foray for Pyer Moss, now postponed until Saturday. The live-streamed event hosted at Villa Lewaro, the impressive 1918 estate of Madam C.J. Walker was bombarded by thunder, lightning heavy wind, and rain as loyal show guests including Tracee Ellis Ross, A$AP Ferg, Justine Skye, Bethann Hardison, and Aurora James took cover for over 3 hours (branded spliffs calmed the crowd, #LegalizeIt). As the first-ever Black American designer invited by the Chambre Syndicale to present during couture week, the good news is the much anticipated, postponed event will now be open to the public, with a portion of the audience available via ticket link. WWD reports the Chambre Syndicale will make a formal announcement today that it is extending couture week until Saturday so Pyer Moss can close it out officially.
Bottega Veneta to Show Spring 2022 in Detroit
Creative Director Daniel Lee is choosing to debut the Spring 2022 Bottega Veneta Salon 03 collection in Detroit on October 21st. Unclear why this specific location as the brand has debuted in London and Berlin for prior collections, but there are two possible speculations: one, because Detroit is known for its techno/house music, which Lee is a fan of, and secondly, in regards to COVID-19, the US is opening up faster than Europe. Bottega Veneta, like many other brands, is experimenting with a new format by using salon shows to replace traditional shows. [WWD]
The Karl Lagerfeld x Kenneth Ize Capsule is Here
The late great Karl Lagerfeld eponymous brand has teamed up with Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize on an exclusive S/S 21 capsule collection. Style advisor for the luxury brand Carine Roitfeld initiated the collaboration between design director Hun Kim of House of Karl Lagerfeld and 2019 LVMH finalist Kenneth Ize. The collection is gender-neutral with a blend of rich prints inspired by the aso oke fabric, which is handwoven by Yoruba artisans in Nigeria, with a European sleek element to it. Vibrant bags, beaded jewelry, and sandals are also part of the dynamic collection and available on Farfetch and Browns. [Harpers Bazaar]
Vogue Netherlands is Closing
After 10 years of running, Vogue Netherlands is closing down. In an Instagram post on the company’s official page, editor-in-chief Rinke Tjepkema notified the public of the magazine’s upcoming closure. “I would like to thank you. For reading the magazine, following us online, and visiting our events. Only because of you were we able to become such a household name in the Dutch media landscape. I hope you enjoyed Vogue, we have loved every minute of making it for you. Until we meet again.”
