Jacket – T by Alexander Wang | Top – Victor Glemaud | Shoes – Manolo Blahnik | Earrings – Albright Fashion Library
Stylist – Rachel Gilman
Hair – Sirsa Ponciano | Makeup – Ayami Nishimura
When it comes to inclusion in sizing, the fashion community has dragged its feet in addressing the lack of desire to extend its collections to anyone over a size 10. Pitting sample size, also know as straight size, against plus has created a categorization based on measurements presented as extreme polar opposites, a disservice to anyone who falls in between the gaps. Model Jill Kortleve knows all too well the negative effects of trying to fit within that constrained framework. “The most important moment in my career was listening to my body and making the decision to stay true to who I am,” Kortleve describes her decision to transition from the straight-sized constrictions she felt pressured to follow into a curve model.
Trench coat – Tamuna Ingorokva | Top – Versus Versace
Born and raised in the south of Holland, of Dutch and Suriname descent, Kortleve first dragged her feet entering into the modeling world in fear of a lack of acceptance. Finding a niche agency dedicated to diversity, was the first appealing step she found was desperately needed in her native Amsterdam. “I started modeling around 4 years ago when two of my really close friends started their own agency focused on more inclusivity in the fashion world,” she relates. “For me, it was really important that I know I could trust my agents.”
Since her exclusive debut walking for Alexander McQueen Spring 2019 runway show, the New York transplant has gone on to appear in the brand’s campaign shot by Jamie Hawkesworth, lent her visage to H&M and a recent editorial spread for American Vogue. The fact that brands have taken to Kortleve in her present role as a curve model is not something that goes unnoticed for the new model. Describing her past year as “unreal and sometimes I still can’t believe that me, as a curve model, was a part of this campaign. It made me realize that a lot of good things are happening in the fashion industry.”
Dress – Paco Rabanne | Earrings – Albright Fashion Library
However, as far as size inclusivity, Kortleve still believes there’s much to be accomplished in the fashion industry to normalize the vast, natural range of sizes. “Personally, I think that we’re at a good start but a lot of brands are not genuinely supporting the change but are using it more as a marketing strategy,” she criticizes. “There’s still not much changed in the ‘straight size modeling’ industry, models are still being forced to lose weight and be really skinny by their agencies. Just because curve and plus-size models are now accepted, doesn’t mean that anything changed for the straight-size models.” Yet with her recent success, she remains optimistic about the fashion industry’s acceptance of her body and hopes to inspire others to just be their true authentic selves. “The industry has definitely started changing but we’re only at the beginning.”
Tank top – Wanda Nylon
