JASON WU SS14
Though she’s marked by her innate glamour, the Jason Wu woman exists in a state of constant change. With every collection the designer shifts his focus just a little evolving the look of his namesake brand and challenging the expectations of his audience. Last season’s seductive ‘Extreme Feminity’ was well received, but the dark, at times severe ensembles with their dominatrix leanings were nowhere to be found on Wu’s spring runway. This was a light and bright affair punctuated by touches of metallic that glittered on stars like Karen Elson, Elise Crombez and Hilary Rhoda. While it is natural for spring to send designers reaching for swaths of pale colored silk and sparkling textures, the 180 shift for Wu was more about finding a new ease than settling into the familiar motifs of the season. Cool practically reverberated off the catwalk and for a designer with as many uptown fans as Wu the relaxed feel of this showing felt new.
The less is more mantra has always had a place in fashion, but in the past few years its become something of a rallying call uniting designers. Wu is the latest to embrace the ethos, labeling this collection his take on “a dialogue between construction and ease.” In laymen’s terms that amounts to a whole lot of minimal, well-cut pieces that manage to look simple to wear, yet are still imbued with the designer’s signature glitz. It wouldn’t be a Jason Wu show without glamour, even when it is tempered by restraint his natural talent for creating fantastical fashion fantasy shines through. The crepe bias dresses, satin bustiers and lace embroidered accents were simply beautiful, but the show hit its stride with the appearance of red carpet ready gowns that elicited oohs and aah. If the the pale sage tank number on Karlie Kloss doesn’t make its way onto the back of a top tier Hollywood starlet there is no justice in this world.
Text by Janelle Okwodu
All Images by Peter Michael Dills / Stringer / Getty Images