Calvin Klein Men Spring/Summer 2013
Nobody, it seems, loves the ’90s quite as much as Italo Zucchelli. The Calvin Klein men’s designer took another trip back to the slicked-back hair and denim jackets of that long-ago era for Spring 2013, bringing the old-school proportions and cuts together with the almost-scientific fascination with technical fabrics that has made the label such a fertile wellspring of futurism. With a bevy of New York sports stars in the front row, Zucchelli sent out a sharp collection that touched on the theme of American masculinity that has served as an important foundation for the brand for decades. Even a distorted floral print took on an air of manliness, as inspired by the “Californian summer.” There were the perfectly tailored suits you expect from Calvin, with classic cuts in shimmering fabrics, along with the luxe sportswear that were a minimalist’s dream, but there was nonetheless change afoot, starting with that surprising basic premise. A muted palette of grays was an inspired take on West Coast living, and the resulting tone was less sombre than serious. Zucchelli proved yet again he knows the man he’s designing for: strong, smart, and always moving against the current while looking around the corner up ahead.