Berluti Men S/S 13
The expansion of luxury shoemakers Berluti into menswear continued with a vast presentation that took over the gardens of Paris’ Palais Royal with a passel of stage sets stuffed full of intricate objects that spoke of taste and privilege. There were gorgeous leather bags and shoes in a hundred colors, all made by hand to the brand’s exacting standards. The clothes themselves—worn by a cast that mixed models with what the industry likes to call “real” men, the result of an exhaustive casting process taking over 3 months—were refined and classically elegant, the kinds of designs that have looked perfect for decades and will continue to for decades to come. There was a very European, almost aristocratic sensibility to the pieces, crisp suits and dressy sportswear with a throwback feel and an appealing timelessness. The show also carried a hint of old-school Hollywood glamour, evoking classic icons like Cary Grant and Humphrey Bogart, especially in the bow ties and the wide-collared pullovers and the pleated trousers. The vignettes—ranging from a labyrinth to a laboratory—helped communicate the legacy of the clothes, the way they fit in perfectly to a fleshed-out world of history and detail.