Berluti / Fall/Winter 2012
The Berluti name is synonymous with the kind of craftsmanship and elegance that denote quality. Over the years their shoes have gained the kind of cult following most labels would kill for: when you can count legends like Yves Saint Laurent and Andy Warhol among your fans, you’ve done something right.
Berluti’s past is storied, but LVMH’s Antoine Arnault and designer Alessandro Sartori made a strong case for its future with an appealing showing during Paris menswear. Shown in a grandiosely luxurious room of Ecole des Beaux Arts (entered into through an actual walk-in armoire), amidst a crowd of top tier editors, Berluti’s expertly constructed classic pieces were hard to ignore. While other mens shows thrived on extremist looks, Sartori focused on the standards. Building the Berluti look around the kind of clothing men buy and wear, rather than the outlandish looks that dominate editorial pages, Sartori created a compelling portrait of modern masculinity. Unfussy, down to earth and richly detailed, the Sartori look is completely in line with the current concept of luxury. Standout elements like hand-patinated biker jackets in supple leather and oversized cashmere parkas are certain to speak to the man who craves subtlety as much as he desires opulence.
The maturity inherent in the designs was reflected in the handsome cast. Ranging from 25 to 72 the men of Berluti were placed in a series of engaging tableaux. Whether they were playing chess, reading a good book or even giving their shoes a champagne shine, they all looked completely at home in Sartori’s pieces.
Photography by Stephan Moskovic
Text by Janelle Okwodu