Christiane Arp with the designers of Vogue Salon – All Images courtesy of Vogue Germany
As anyone with an eye for emerging fashion talent will tell you, there is a great deal happening in Berlin of late. From the cutting-edge fashions of Berlin Fashion Week, to the myriad of shops and boutiques, the city is a full-fledged fashion capital brimming with rising talents who offer an exciting glimpse into the future of design. But talent is only the first step towards greatness: in order for a designer to move to the next level their vision must be fostered, developed, and given a platform to shine.
This is where Vogue Germany‘s ‘VOGUE SALON’ steps in: conceived by editor in chief, Christiane Arp, as a showcase for Germany’s finest designers, the event offers not only a space for these new talents to show their wares, but also the support and attention of the fashion community. Instead of a time-limitation, the designers stay in the program until it is time for them to enter the next stage of their careers. In the meantime, they meet editors, influences, and mentors to take their businesses to the next level and introduce their work to a whole new audience. Get to know this year’s lineup of innovators and get to know their thrilling designs.
With resumes that include stints at iconic houses like Jean Paul Gaultier and Yohji Yamamoto, German-French designers Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul are already fashion veterans. In 2010 the duo branched out on their own and founded label, Augustin Teboul. The line which focuses on feminine, dramatic styles with intricate detailing, has been winning awards left and right – most recently the 2012 “Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize” in Paris.
Designers Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul | Ph. Gregory Harris
Not every designer has their work presented in gallery spaces alongside high-brow art, but Vladimir Karaleev is a unique case. Focusing on experimental techniques and geometric forms, Karaleev has been pushing the boundaries of wearable art since he founded his label in 2005.
Designer Vladimir Karaleev | Ph. Gregory Harris
Bavarian designer Michael Sontag, doesn’t let fashion box him in. With pieces that can be converted into multiple items – a dress that can be worn as a jacket, tops that double as tunics – Sontag expresses his creativity without fitting into the usual categories. Focusing on exquisite fabrics, draping and the art of creating looks that seem effortless, Sontag is an exciting talent to watch.
London College of Fashion grad, David Tomaszewski is focused on good ol’ fashioned glamour, topped off with refined polish befitting couture. His luxe designs seem tailor made for red carpets, galas and the kinds of sophisticated evenings out that make the society pages. Naturally, Tomaszewski has been winning his share of awards for these sumptuous pieces including the coveted “Golden Thread.”
Designer David Tomaszewski | Ph. Gregory Harris
With a name taken from mythology (in Irish lore Queen Achtland rejected all men until the a god proposed marriage) and a sleek style all their own, designers Thomas Bentz and Oliver Lühr have created a one of a kind vibe with their line, Achtland. Creating clothes that utilize dramatic contrasts and sensual silhouettes, the label is already off to an impressive start. Fun fact – Luhr began his career at Chloé and Balenciaga, before starting Achtland with Bentz.
While working at Viktor and Rolf in 2010, German duo Silke Geib and Nadine Möllenkamp met and soon started their own label. Geib and Möllenkamp’s design process is unique; Möllenkamp works out of Amsterdam, while Geib is based in Berlin. Even though the designers aren’t together in the studio, they remain on the same page about the key components of their brand. Utilizing a mix of handmade detailing and innovative new fabric treatments, Blaenk is a compelling mix of old and new.
With a design pedigree that includes time spent at Marc Jacobs, Hugo Boss and Preen, designers Sonja Hodzode and Sarah Büren of BLAME are seasoned talents with an eye for idiosyncratic design. Since the 2010 launch of their line the duo has focused on wearable designs that combine vintage detailing and contemporary cuts for a look that is feminine yet streetwise.
ISABELLE DE HILLERIN
Designer Isabelle de Hillerin knows a well made piece never goes out of style. Hillerin’s thoroughly modern line is all about the merger of traditional Romanian fabric production and contemporary cuts. Presenting the traditional Romanian and Moldovan materials in clean cuts and elegant lines offers a modern take on the kind of time tested craftsmanship that has been going strong for centuries.
Designer Isabelle de Hillerin | Ph. Max Vadukul
Former stylist Maike Dietrich, began her knitwear career by handmaking pieces for close friends. In 2003 Maike took the personal project one step further and launched her own label, taking the oversized knits into fresh territory by mixing in 80s references, exaggerated proportions and playfulness that makes each piece standout.
Designer Maike Dietrich| Ph. Max Vadukul