The program notes for Robert Geller’s Fall 2011 show pointed to the luxurious, historically-minded films of Italian director Luchino Visconti as an inspiration. The collection demonstrated the mix of modernism and classicism that Geller mines so perfectly with old-fashioned topcoats in wool and angora and a fur-collared jacket matched with studded gloves and a cheeky newsboy cap. The luminous colors from Geller’s spring collection were replaced here with dark slate and sand with touches of mauve and clay, used most often on a soft leather that had that substance’s exact appearance. Many of the models wore ribbed hoods and flowing scarves, deft styling touches that evoked a semi-distant past while looking very current. Last season’s student protesters seemed to have evolved into full-blown revolutionaries, their bangs swept in front of their eyes, in looks that felt aggressive without being combative. Subtle colorblocking that stayed within the color family felt on-trend, while the wrinkled textures that many of the clothes had were a refreshing turn away from the sharply tailored suiting that has popped up everywhere else this season, demonstrating once again that Geller is a man with a clear aesthetic vision.
For the full collection, visit Style.com.