For his second collection for Dior Men, Jonathan Anderson presented a show built on unlikely pairings, staged in the gardens of the Rodin Museum. According to the show notes, the collection was conceived as “a game of unbridled associations,” allowing old and new references to collide with ease. That approach was felt throughout the runway, which moved fluidly between past and present without settling into a singular idea. There were clear historical references, particularly nods to Paul Poiret in the silhouettes and decorative detailing, balanced by more contemporary styling by Benjamin Bruno. Lace metallic V-line tanks appeared alongside denim, while accessories like the Dior knuckle belt, pyrite necklaces, and snake-print asymmetrical boots added an edge. The collection felt intentionally spontaneous, embracing contrast rather than cohesion. Hair by Guido Palau reinforced that, ranging from neon-yellow mullet wigs that looked like they were plucked from the late Pam Hogg to deliberately undone, blown-out anime styles. Napoleonic elements also surfaced in tailoring, including structured suits, diamond military epaulettes, ruffled white collars, and a continued reinterpretation of the house’s Bar jacket. These were set against long jersey dresses in indigo and smoky grey, as well as outstanding plaid and parka outerwear in army green and black, some finished with cream fur or adorned with floral motifs that reappeared across the collection. Anderson’s Dior does not aim for a safe, polished vision based on designs explored at other houses. Instead, it thrives on unpredictability, leaving us curious about where he will take the house next, particularly as couture approaches.
