With the exception of the occasional breakthrough talents like Lucky Blue or Alton Mason, on the whole, male models at the top of their game will be seen but rarely ever heard from. The general lack of platform or perspective has always been the case, even as the past decade has seen a quiet revolution in the casting directions within the menswear industry. Once a space where it was predominantly white, hetero-presenting men booking the top jobs, models these days have far more freedom to express their sexuality and gender openly, and Black and Asian faces—mainly from West African, North African, Latin American, and East Asian backgrounds—rule the runways. Yet, what hasn’t changed is how little fanfare and hype surrounds those ranked at the very peak of the fashion industry. This is precisely why Models.com set out to learn more about a selection of elusive beauties picked from our Hot List and Top 50 rankings. Photographed in Paris by Delwin Kamara, we spoke to seven models making their mark in the menswear market.
Emmanuel Adjaye, 23, from London
What has been your most memorable moment on set so far?
It would have to be walking for Off-White couture. Being in an exclusive lineup with supermodels put me in a daze; I felt like I was dreaming. As a child, I would play dress up in my mother’s closet now and then. I thought walking in couture would be a distant dream for a gay Black kid raised predominantly in South London. I would have to thank my agents and my beloved fairy godfathers, Ibrahim Kamara and Patrick, for making this dream come true for me.
What’s one thing people may be surprised to find out about you?
Maybe how my personality is genuinely feminine acting and over-enthusiastic, but I also embrace my masculine side. This is something I used to be heavily bullied for in school and at home. Now I feel so blessed to be me and to express myself however I want to. Occasionally I will exude the cliche “lad with a beer” but contradict it with my legs crossed like a Cheshire Cat with some sassy shades on. Could you call that the London look? Another random fact: I love mushrooms and try to include them in every–and I mean every–meal I make at home.
Where would you like to take your modeling career? Who are your dream brands or collaborators?
One of my dreams is to go into acting, even through beauty or fragrance commercials for brands including Chanel, Loewe, and Gucci. I used to do theatre classes in school. At that time, I felt like I had to dim my personality down for my own protection. But when I would do theatre, it allowed me to express sides of myself I hadn’t been able to before. I think this overlaps with modeling and why I’m so passionate and extremely over-enthusiastic about my job. It’s very personal to me and my constant growth.
Do you ever have self-doubt? How do you manage anxiety or stressful situations?
Definitely. Like any job, it is easy to go into the rabbit hole of not thinking you’re good enough and feeling out of place. As someone that has struggled with anxiety previously, I try to spend some time in my day to meditate and clear my mind. On days I don’t feel sluggish, I do yoga. It helped me realize that many thoughts I had were benign. Feeling stressed in a working environment is common for everyone. And being a person of color, it could feel more isolating in that feeling. I usually try and communicate my needs more in those situations. Whether it be asking for a couple of minutes of alone time or finding counsel in someone I feel comfortable with on set.
Mahamadou Diaoune, 21, from Paris
What is one thing you have to do before you start a workday and why?
I always pray first, then get ready. It’s pretty fast because I rarely eat breakfast. I then drive to the location; driving is my favorite part because it relaxes me.
How is the “public you” different from the “private you”?
The public me is calmer than the private me.
By now, you have probably stayed in a lot of model apartments. What kind of roommate are you?
In general, I am the one who cooks. That’s one of my hobbies, by the way.
What has been one of the biggest challenges of your career?
My biggest challenge is finding the perfect balance between my studies and career.
Malik Anderson, 20, from Brooklyn
Did you always want to be a model? Tell us about how you were discovered.
Modeling was something I never thought existed. I was a narrow-minded kid who only knew what went on in my neighborhood. In other words, no, I didn’t want to be a model; I didn’t even know what it was at first. The way I was discovered was like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. I was in Manhattan on 14th St, Union Square, and three people came up to me during that day at separate times in the same vicinity and asked me if I wanted to model. Mind you, I had never heard of modeling before, so I ignored the offers. Later on, I went home and told my family. They were excited, but I was cool about it. I ended up going out later that night, and I was taking the train when a guy (Valente Fanning) came up to me and asked me if I wanted to model. The question had come up too many times in one day, so I said yes to Valente. I didn’t have a phone number, but I had a phone… my phone was just used for playing games on the train on my trips home after school. So we exchanged social media usernames. The next day we linked up to shoot on his iPhone 8. And from there, I signed with V Management as my mother agent, and the journey began. Here I am today.
What do you take with you everywhere you travel?
My Wave Brush. It’s mandatory for me to keep my hair tidy. My hair is my trophy. It’s one of the first things you’ll see when you look at me. It’s a must to keep the waves spinning.
How do your friends and family feel about your modeling work?
The feedback is always positive, and it’s the reason I keep going. The way I inspire them through my work is a great feeling. They’re the reason I can still keep my head on my shoulders. Shout out to them!
Where do you think you would be now if you hadn’t become a model? What would you be doing with your life?
Playing basketball. It’s what I grew up on. It kept me out of trouble and gave me something to work for. Another way I was kept disciplined.
Momo Ndiaye, 24, from Yeumbeul, Senegal
Did you always want to be a model? Tell us about how you were discovered.
I was first scouted when I was 16 years old and living in Italy, but my mum was very skeptical and didn’t trust the industry very much. So, after that day, many people stopped me around trying to scout me, but I would always say no, or I was not interested because I didn’t know what the job was. That was until a guy named Phill told me that I looked like a model and that I could be a good one too. He then explained everything to me about the profession, so I decided to give it a go. And so far, so good! I like how it is going. I’ve done some good things, and I’m proud.
What is one thing you must do before starting a workday and why?
Every day before I start a job, I make myself ready with skincare and do a bit of meditation to stay calm and ready to shoot.
How is the “public you” different from the “private you”?
I think the private me and the public me don’t have a lot of difference. I always try to know people, to talk to them. I’m always funny, talking to everyone, and I like to bring a good vibe wherever I am. I want people to laugh and have fun.
What’s one thing people may be surprised to find out about you?
People might be surprised about the fact that I’m Senegalese, but I’m also Italian and can speak it fluently.
Najib Abdi, 26, from Mogadishu, Somalia
What other passions do you have aside from modeling?
I love styling and design, and I’m also working as a photographer’s assistant with Ellen Von Unwerth! I love her signature and her work; she is an inspiration to me.
Where would you like to take your modeling career? Who are your dream brands or collaborators?
Definitely New York City! I would love to move there to improve my English and visit the city. I’ve never been there so that it would be a dream come true! Regarding my dream brands, it would be nice to have the opportunity to work with brands like Ami! I really love their energy, and they have a very good fit for my body!
Where do you think you would be now if you hadn’t become a model? What would you be doing with your life?
If I hadn’t been scouted, I would have kept on working in a tailoring atelier between Kenya and Italy. I love making clothes on my own, customizing everything… And I keep doing it!
How do your friends and family feel about your modeling work?
To be honest, my family is not a huge fan of my work as a model; I think they don’t really understand why it is a ‘real’ job. Luckily, I have a lot of friends around me, and they are very supportive of my career and what I would love to do!
Tobias Dionisi, 21, from Morisson, Argentina
Did you always want to be a model? Tell us about how you were discovered.
The first time I had a modeling job, I was eight years old, and I remember how crazy it was to see myself on a billboard. My dad was a part of the shoot as a model too! I’ve always been interested in fashion and the fantasy behind it. My mom was a model when she was young, and that was a big inspiration for me to do the same. Actually, before I started modeling, I was studying to become a lawyer; I have a big passion for law and politics, but at the time, it wasn’t working for me, so I decided to follow my heart and send pictures to agencies to see if I could work as a model. Months after signing up, I was already flying for my first modeling trip, and since then, I’ve been traveling around.
What has been your most memorable moment on set so far?
I think one of the moments that I’m never gonna get over is when I opened for Bottega Veneta at women’s fashion week. Really happy to be able to work with such inspiring people. From fittings to the show, I’ve felt accepted and really proud to be part of it. Forever grateful for their belief in my potential.
Where would you like to take your modeling career? Who are your dream brands or collaborators?
Activism is very important, and one of the things that I’ve been dreaming about is creating a charity focused on helping nonbinary and trans people with mental health issues. I have the privilege of having a voice, and being able to represent my community is something that is always gonna be my soul booster. I want to be able to inspire others to be comfortable in their skin. Personally, I dream of working with icons like Anthony Vaccarello, Tom Ford, Steven Meisel, and Casey Cadwallader.
What has been one of the biggest challenges of your career?
I think accepting myself and not putting on a front with my femininity and just being the way I am is a fight I have on a daily basis. The industry has been the place where I have felt the most embraced but also the most punched. When you’re exposing yourself on top of that, social transitioning can be difficult, but it’s important to keep the focus on change and positivity. There are still a lot of things to be changed and a lot of conversations to be done within fashion and even our community. We need to speak out and protect each other. I believe the future is nonbinary.
Yura Nakano, 20, from Tokyo
How do your friends and family feel about your modeling work?
Luckily, my family understands what I’m doing right now. They always tell me to be responsible about every job I do and be respectful to the people who I work with. My dad loves fashion, so I’m really grateful when I work with brands he likes.
What other passions do you have aside from modeling?
I love collecting designer archive pieces. I used to work at a vintage clothing store in Japan for three years before I started modeling. I collect Comme des Garçons the most. I still have a few pieces left in my room in Tokyo, so I hope I can go pick them up soon. Recently I’m focused more on collecting Jil Sander by Raf Simons. For now, I only have one piece, which is a python t-shirt from SS2012. Hopefully, I can find good-quality archives in the future! I can’t stop spending money on clothes! I need to chill out…
Is your dad responsible for your love of fashion? Do you have any specific memories involving your father and his interest in fashion?
I think so! We always share our thoughts on the clothes we wear. We still share both of our clothes sometimes. Now I live far away from him, so I can’t do that often, but our style is connected most of the time.
Do you ever have self-doubt? How do you manage anxiety or stressful situations?
Pretty much all the time. I used to be very stressed about my options and jobs. Now I’ve started to focus more on my personal life. What I do is accept reality and try to live in the present. I don’t look back at what I did in the past and stop thinking about the future. It’s all about living NOW as much as possible, and I’m really enjoying it.
