The sounds of the ocean (thanks to sound designer Frederic Sanchez) echoed through a white abyss while models walked for Loewe’s S/S 23 men’s collection. Known for his surrealist experimentations, Jonathan Anderson approached this menswear collection with the intersection of nature and technology in mind with coats, jeans, and shoes surreally sprouting grass. Collaborating with bio-designer Paula Ulargui Escalona, chia plants and St John’s wort seeds were planted and grown for twenty days straight in a specially constructed polytunnel outside Paris to bring the garments to life. These plants bloomed from bright fabrics onto Flow runner sneakers, joggers, and coats, making them the show’s main attraction. Aside from the literal plant organisms, there were some other standout pieces – leather puffer hoodies and coats, fakel sleeves, shorts and shoes designed as Loewe Puzzle and Flamenco bags, skintight branded leggings, and face coverings with fish and flower displays. Taking screen time to a whole other level, Anderson’s exploration of tech went even deeper as coats were cheekily affixed with phone-sized screens that displayed images of people kissing, birds flocking, and the deep sea. With a casting lineup cast by Ashley Brokaw consisting of opener Mark Visee, closer Feranmi Ajetomobi, Hamaam Pelewura, Akito Mizutani, and Sunmoon Jung, the collection evoked a larger conversation about technology’s effect on nature and us.
