Jonathan Scotti and Oliver O’Sullivan
Sometimes a little trolling is just what is needed. The simple turned surreal with Jonathan Anderson humorous take on experimental fashion for his latest Loewe’s menswear collection. It was certain that the Spanish House has never looked like what Anderson radically dreamt up this weekend, but his successful womenswear collection last season also reached glorious, new heights for the former conservative leather bag makers. Oh, there were leather bags but not how you would expect: footwear was crafted to look like Loewe’s famous Flamenco bag. Told to WWD during a preview Anderson asked “Is clothing going to have to compete more with the digital world?” and technologically speaking his use of fiber optic lights woven into shirts, jumpsuits and coats stood up to the existential question (but how do you charge them is another question). Transparent coats that mirrored PVC were actually made of thin leather, a very complicated, couture-level construction last attempted by Galliano at Dior and Gaultier at Hermes. Sweaters had comically long finger tendrils and heart-shaped balaclavas dialed up the novelty factor and printed shirts with models’ faces would make Narcissus blush. Cast by Ashley Brokaw, the rookie line up of Thomas Bukovatz, Anass Bouazzaoui, Fabien Naivo, Lucas Dermont and Limamu Mbaye were the perfect hosts for Anderson’s metafashionverse.
Alessio Luisin
