Makeup Artist Grace Ahn Gravitated Towards Multifaceted Beauty

With over a decade of experience in the beauty industry, Grace Ahn has established herself as one of the most sought-after makeup artists in the fashion and entertainment industry. Growing up, Ahn’s Korean American family had traditional career aspirations for her – but it wasn’t until she discovered her fondness for beauty while working at a makeup counter that she knew she had found her calling. She honed her skills by studying beauty legends like Kevyn Aucoin and François Nars then eventually moved to New York City in 2010 to assist a mutual friend represented by an agency. Today, Ahn is known for her ability to create both natural and avant-garde looks, working with some of the most in-demand models, creatives, and actors like Iman, Bella Hadid, Ashley Graham, Jamie Lee Curtis, and Gabriella Karefa-Johnson. Her passion for the art of makeup and dedication to her craft is evident in the projects she takes on, whether it’s for British Vogue or Tiffany & Co. “Beauty is everything,” says Ahn. “It infiltrates so much of people’s lives because it’s not just about looking good, put together, or a certain way. I think it changes how people feel, and that’s why I’m a genuine beauty/makeup freak and nerd.” Models.com spoke to the renowned makeup artist for the stories behind her favorite looks, makeup trends, and the importance of being multifaceted.

Can you walk us through your relationship with beauty growing up? Did you always want to be a makeup artist?
​​No, I didn’t know such a job existed growing up. I was always obsessed with fashion magazines and would read through them with fascination, but it wasn’t until I got a job working at a makeup counter in high school that I realized being a makeup artist was an actual career. My parents had always hoped I would become a doctor or lawyer, which is typical of a Korean American family. Although I didn’t have a clear path ahead of me until high school, I’ll never forget the first product I bought at a counter, the MAC Studio fixed powder. I would save up all my money for it.

How did you learn how to apply makeup? did you go to a specific school to learn how to apply, or was it just from experiences?
I learned how to apply makeup when I started working at a makeup counter, but I learned how to put makeup on myself by stealing my mother’s makeup and applying it on myself. Also, through Kevyn Aucoin’s Allure column that he used to have in the 90s and early 2000s. I learned tips and techniques from all the beauty sections of fashion magazines.

You’ve worked with some of the top creatives, but who were your idols growing up, and why?
Some of my idols would be Kevyn Aucoin because of his books and the column. The books were the first insight into makeup artists and their professions. Also, François Nars, I kept seeing him in the nineties under editorials. The credits would say, Makeup by François Nars. I would ask myself, “wait, what, somebody did the makeup for this? The models didn’t just show up like that?” That’s when I began to realize the profession of being a makeup artist.

Where do you draw inspiration from?
I am inspired by everything, mostly music, people, and clothing. But I am particularly drawn to colors and patterns, and I often use them as the starting point for creating an eye look. For example, if I see the color on someone’s sweater, and it’s a cool orange or something, I start thinking oh I would love to do an eye look like that, and it kind of just snowballs from there.

You mentioned being inspired by music. Do you have any favorite musicians you listen to or songs that put you in the mood when you’re on set?
Yes, all the time. I always have music playing in the hair and makeup room if it’s not playing in the studio. When it comes to music, I listen to everything. But I love David Bowie and iconic legends like him; those with powerful makeup look. Those were always my earliest inspirations, especially with the more progressive gender-bending looks, like a man wearing makeup, flamboyant style, or bright hair color.

What was your favorite makeup moment that you created last year?
I had the honor of creating some of my favorite makeup looks last year, including the last print issue for Allure’s “Best of Beauty,” where I collaborated with friends on interesting and fun beauty looks. Working on the editorial together was amazing! We grew up together in this industry so working on the last print issue of Best of Beauty was really special. It is always so great when a makeup artist finds a compatible photographer. We truly are always on the same wavelength and there is always a synergy when we work together. For the shoot, we had some amazing models and used jewels and pearls on the eyes for some of the looks. Another favorite was working with Jamie Lee Curtis for the Oscars. She has such an iconic chic, classic style, and it was a pleasure to enhance her natural beauty. I like doing both of the spectra. I love enhancing some​​one’s natural beauty as much as gluing stuff onto people’s faces. I kind of run the gamut between the two.

I loved the shots of Mayowa Nicholas from the “Best of Beauty” editorial; she was just glowing. Sometimes I feel like you can tell in editorials that the models are having a good time, and it just looked like such a beautiful moment.
Thank you so much. It makes such a difference with the model and how much they inspire you because, obviously, as a model, they don’t dictate the creative. But she was loving the looks, the makeup, doing something different, and she was really owning the moment, which inspired me, so I’m glad to hear that you saw that in through the pictures because it was like that on set.

​​What was the experience like working with an industry legend like Iman for British Vogue, and do you have any key takeaways from that shoot?
Working with Iman was surreal for British Vogue; it was truly a dream come true. When I get a chance to work with a beauty icon like her, I am like a sponge and try to learn as much as possible. She is so knowledgeable about makeup, hair, clothing as well as photography. And since she is also a beauty icon, we both would ask each other about products, colors, and techniques. It was really fun! She is as beautiful, elegant, witty, and glamorous as one could imagine. Her experience and passion for modeling and fashion were palpable, and she was also really kind and professional. It was an honor to work with her.

Beauty, like so many things, is ever-changing in its definition. How would you define beauty today?
Beauty is ever-changing, but today I define it as everything. It infiltrates so much of people’s lives because it’s not just about looking good, put together, or a certain way, it can be used as an artistic expression. I think it changes how people feel, and that’s why I’m a genuine beauty and makeup freak and nerd. It’s empowering and fun.

What was the craziest, impromptu situation you’ve ever had to navigate on a job? And how did you deal with it?
There are a lot of those moments. Whenever I get this question, I think of when I had to do a full makeup change on a model in a moving van on the streets of Paris. I was working on an editorial with Nadine Ijewere, and we didn’t have time for a makeup change, but I said I could do it in the car, and did it in a few minutes. I put blush, a little eyeshadow, a red lip, and matte red lipstick on the talent. Thanks to my experience doing shows where you’re always pressed for time, you’re doing hair, makeup, and nails, all at the same time, on one person. It was like muscle memory for me.

Who have been some of your favorite models to work with, and why?
There are so many. One of my favorites is Ashley Graham. I mean, she’s more than a model. She’s a mogul now and has the best energy. She’s charismatic, professional, and just very talented, and she has that 90’s supermodel classic face, it’s a dream to do makeup on her. I love her. I also love Bella Hadid. I’ve worked with her a lot; she is so beautiful and has the same kind of energy, the old-school supermodel kind of energy. Also, Yumi Nu is stunning and has that natural model ability. It’s very effortless.

Over the years, we’ve seen an evolution in makeup trends from no makeup to makeup being more extravagant. What have you enjoyed the most and least out of all the trends?
I love that it’s become a little bit more of a trend to have makeup looks. Don’t get me wrong. I think a natural, no makeup is so good, beautiful, and necessary, you know? but it’s also because I’m such a makeup freak that I need to do both. I need to be able to do that and do it well and be proud of that, but then also really pop off and do something out of the box and use many colors. I would say, in general, I don’t like it if it’s just one thing that everybody is looking for that’s trending. To me, that is always so boring. I don’t think one thing should dominate anything because people are multifaceted.

One of the job’s perks is traveling, so I was curious about your trip to Senegal with long-time collaborator Nadine Ijewere. Had you ever been before this trip?
I’ve never been to Senegal before. It was so magical. We were also in different parts outside of Dakar and smaller towns, and I loved the energy and vibe; it was very beautiful. One thing I noticed about Senegalese people is that everyone looked like a model. Everyone was so gorgeous. I was gagged the entire time.

Do you think brands have improved at creating more robust offerings in their color palettes and shades than in years past?
Oh my gosh, yes. I say this all the time to assistants and to people that are younger and newer. When I started out in makeup, even in 2010, which was technically not that long ago, it was impossible to have a professional makeup kit from any drug store or department store. Only a couple of brands carried the colors and the range of not just colors itself but complexion colors. Nowadays, when a makeup artist starts, you can buy it all affordably and produce some really good makeup using only affordable makeup. I have a bunch of it in my kit, and the range accessible now is unbelievable.

Do you think any brands were part of disrupting that movement and including more shades?
Yes, I mean we have Miss Rihanna, Miss Robyn Fenty. She is a queen for setting the standard and ensuring a complexion shade for everyone, you know? That shouldn’t be a specialty. It should be the norm. But before that, I would say MAC Cosmetics. Honestly, most people, including myself, even in 2010, would not be able to do some of the makeup looks we did if we didn’t have MAC. They truly cater to professional makeup artists but also consumers as well.

What’s next for Grace Ahn this year?
What’s next for me is what I’ve been doing. I always joke to people that I will probably be doing what I’m doing until I cannot walk anymore. I will be 70 and still going on set if I can. For me, it’s always been about having the experiences I’m having, staying open, and always having fun while doing it.