Paco Rabanne Passes at 88
Legendary Spanish-born designer Paco Rabanne, known for his best-seller perfumes and futuristic innovative designs, passed away at 88 today in Portsall, France. Some of Rabanne’s most popular products were metallic ensembles such as the Embellished V-Neck Mini Dress and the 1969 paillette-embellished chainmail shoulder bag. Spanish group Puig, who controls the Paco Rabanne fashion house and fragrance business, confirmed his death. José Manuel Albesa, president of Puig’s fashion and beauty division, said, “Paco Rabanne made transgression magnetic. Who else could induce fashionable Parisian women to clamor for dresses made of plastic and metal? Who but Paco Rabanne could imagine a fragrance called Calandre – the word means ‘automobile grill,’ you know – and turn it into an icon of modern femininity? That radical, rebellious spirit set him apart: There is only one Rabanne.” [WWD]
The Cut Publishes Exposé on Pyer Moss
When Kerby Jean-Raymond, the founder of Pyer Moss, hit the scene in 2015, he was praised by the industry and larger black creative community for incorporating black culture and historical elements into his designs and using fashion to address social and political issues. His designs were often worn by celebrities such as Michelle Obama, Lena Waithe, and Tracee Ellis Ross. Yet with all the hype the brand was getting, behind-the-scenes the company’s infrastructure started to crumble due to leadership mismanagement, as The Cut discovered in a published exposé on Monday. Fast forward a few years later, Jean-Raymond’s former employees share details of alleged negligence in the company as the designer was “spending money irresponsibly, launching multiple projects at once and completing none of them, often paying factories late, and even using company money to throw parties on occasion.” In 2021, Jean-Raymond let go of most of his team without severance, told them he was shutting down and had run out of money. However, according to The Cut, he hired two more rounds of staff, including designer Andre Walker, only to let them go shortly after. The article has sparked controversy on social media, with some talking about the layered expectations for Black and other POC designers to raise the bar and continuously innovate at high stakes. [The Cut]
Sabato De Sarno Is Gucci’s New Creative Director
Last Saturday, the industry was taken by surprise when Kering-owned brand Gucci tapped Sabato De Sarno as the Italian brand’s new creative director. His first show for the brand will debut in September. De Sarno was raised in Naples and is currently based in Rome. He started his career at Prada in 2005, moving to Dolce & Gabbana before eventually joining Valentino in 2009 as the fashion director overseeing both men’s and women’s collections. Gucci’s CEO Marco Bizzarri said, that De Sarno has “the required personality, ambition, and drive to fill his new, highly prestigious role. The eyes of the world will be on him to see if he also has the required creative genius. We are reassured by remarks about De Sarno’s profile: he will have to bear the pressure and find the courage to express an original and compelling view of what Gucci can be.” [WWD]
Lyst Index Releases the Hottest Brands From Q4 of 2022
Who are the current hottest brands? The latest Lyst Index report quarterly tracks the popularity of fashion brands and products, and it looks like Italian Fashion is in reign. Prada sits at the top, with Gucci following in second and Moncler third, Miu Miu fourth, and Valentino in fifth place. Prada replaced Gucci due to an increase in its products searched by 37% during Q4 (Oct-Dec 2022). Bottega Veneta and Loewe made their way up the ladder to sixth and seventh place. For the first time since the start of The Lyst Index, Balenciaga dropped seven spots to eleventh, moving the brand out of the top ten. Dior was rated eighth, while Dolce & Gabbana and Saint Laurent were ninth and tenth, respectively. Breakout brands for Q4 of 2022 were highlighted, such as 16Arlington, Alaïa, and Mugler. [WWD]
Preliminary Paris Fashion Week Calendar Drops
As we prepare for the upcoming women’s F/W 23 season, starting with NYFW on Feb 10th, LFW on Feb 17th, and MFW on Feb 22nd, the Paris fashion week provisional schedule has finally arrived. PFW will run from Feb 27th to March 7 with a total of 67 shows and 40 presentations, showcasing their digital offerings on the federation’s website. To start the week, the 2023 MA students of the Institut Français de la Mode will showcase their graduate collection at 4 pm. Many debuts are in store, starting with Daniel Roseberry, creative director of Parisian couture house Schiaparelli debuting its RTW designs. In the past, the brand had displayed its RTW line in HQ in Place Vendôme. Harris Reed will make his runway debut as creative director of Nina Ricci on March 3rd at 4 pm. Y/Project originally planned to show on Jan 18th during men’s fashion week, but now Glenn Martens and the brand will release their latest collection on March 7th at 3:30 pm. After a three-year Paris hiatus, Alexander McQueen is back on schedule to show on March 4th at 6:30 after hosting multiple runway shows in New York and London. Paco Rabanne is slated for March 1 at 5:30 pm, and Arthur Avellano, Peter Dundas, and Palm Angels swapped out Milan for Paris and will showcase their collections during the week. AZ Factory tapped design duo Molly Molloy and Lucinda Chambers as their next guest designers for the brand’s upcoming collection, debuting on March 6th. Chambers, known for her 25-year gig as fashion director of British Vogue, said it was “truly an honor” to be selected. Four brands will debut their first-on-schedule presentations – Róisín Pierce, Niccolò Pasqualetti, Chen Peng, and Margaret Howell. The final version of the calendar will be released during the week of Feb. 6. [WWD] [WWD]
Tiffany & Co.’s Executive Creative Director for Marketing and Communications, Ruba Abu-Nimah Exits
Just as the new Nike x Tiffany & Co. collab campaign dropped, Tiffany’s executive creative director for marketing and communications, Ruba Abu-Nimah, is exiting the jeweler. Abu-Nimah joined the brand in 2021 as part of its new creative leadership due to Tiffany being acquired by LVMH. Her tasks included “overseeing visual creative assets not involving product design — including website design and imagery, social media content and advertisements, among other categories.” Tiffany aimed to increase the jeweler’s importance among the younger generation by calling on her downtown contacts, like Luar designer Raul Lopez, actress Julia Fox and influencer Anajah Hamilton. [WWD]
Modesl.com Interviews Grace Ahn
Models.com interviews makeup artist Grace Ahn about the stories behind her favorite looks, makeup trends, and the importance of being multifaceted. Check out the interview here.
Models.com Interviews Mohamed Hassan
Models.com interviews streetwear designer, model, and newly appointed Hot Lister Mohamed Hassan, on his scouting story and walking for Dior in his home country, Egypt. Find the interview here.
And don’t forget some of this week’s Models.com Fashion Week coverage from Couture Week and Rankings Updates:
