Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2013
S/S 13 marked a sea change for Helmut Lang designers Nicole and Michael Colovos. After seasons of dutifully doling out edgy neutrals, they showcased a dazzling array of vibrant prints that challenged expectations. Fall finds the design duo pushing new boundaries, working with a pared down color palette, but experimenting via boxy shapes and graphic patterns. Art history buffs will notice the Picasso influence, via those recurring cubist prints – the designers cited the Picasso Black and White exhibit as a reference point – but even if you didn’t catch the Guggenheim exhibit you can appreciate the array of chic pieces. Tailored overcoats in shades of grey, lean stovepipe pants and pencil skirts, an appealing series of sharp blazers and leather jackets: it all worked beautifully. Stylist Alastair McKimm’s artful layering and sleek combinations elevated the entire look, making the edgy cast look even cooler than ever. The legendary Mr. Lang himself, would certainly approve of the minimal ease of those head to toe black and white looks, punctuated by changes in texture rather than tone; even with the added variety, there will always be a place for starkness on the Lang runway.
Text: Janelle Okwodu
Photos: Billy Rood for Models.com