Helmut Lang F/W 2014
Cold weather necessitates all things warm n’ cozy, so fall collections frequently concern themselves with the tactile. Nicole and Michael Colovos’ of Helmut Lang took the idea one step further with their F/W collection, offering up a wide selection of season appropriate textures in the form of (mostly) understated separates. Since the brand’s rebirth in 2008 it has become known as the go to line for minimal, contemporary classics but in recent seasons the designers have broadened their horizons, incorporating touches of eclecticism into the mix with great results. The addition of a well placed pattern or unexpected detail makes all the difference when your audience comes expecting minimalism.
For fall/winter, the husband and wife duo continued their experimentation with prints – most notably on a pair of madcap fiery looks covered with Mars Rover imagery worn by Drake Burnette & Julia Frauche. Those pieces grabbed the attention, but the real excitement centered on the subtle way in which the Colovoses worked with fabrics. In the first portion of the show alone, they deftly combined mohair, angora, leather and more into a cohesive set of looks united by their simplicity and urbane sensibility. Color played a role in the collection’s success, with black and white making an appearance as always, but alongside rich shades of cream and crimson. The bolder palette combined with the statement textures gave the showing a luxe feel – something sure to set it apart when it hits the retail floors.
Style: Alastair McKimm
Casting: Angus Munro for AM Casting (Los Angeles: Streeters Los Angeles, New York: Streeters New York)
Photos by Billy Rood for Models.com
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