Jin Soon Choi on Her Legacy as a Fashion Nail Artist

Jin Soon Choi, Manicurist

Hometown: I grew up in Jeongseon, Gangwon Province, South Korea, and lived in Seoul from the age of 18 until I moved to New York.
Based In: New York City, New York
Representation: Home Agency

I read that you initially wanted to become a writer and worked in a restaurant before becoming a manicurist. What was the process like before you eventually opened your own salon and spa, JINsoon?
Becoming a writer is still a lifelong dream of mine, so perhaps one day I’ll get there. When I first arrived in New York, I worked in a restaurant for exactly one day. It was the first job I could find, and I needed to support myself while navigating a new country without speaking English. The work was simply too physically demanding for me, so I immediately found a job at a Korean-owned nail salon, where I learned the fundamentals of manicures. Later, I moved to an American-owned hair salon in the West Village as the sole manicurist, because I wanted to improve my English and expand my experience. From there, I began providing home services throughout the city. I didn’t even know the term “freelancing” at the time, but that experience taught me how to build relationships, manage my own schedule, and think like an entrepreneur. One of my clients, with whom I exchanged English lessons for manicures, discovered a small storefront in the East Village and encouraged me to open my own salon. That’s also how I met my husband, John Coughlan, an architect who designed and built what eventually grew into four JINsoon salons.

What sparked your interest in nail art, and was there a defining moment that made you pursue it professionally?
When I began working in salons, nail art wasn’t really part of the industry. The most creative service we offered was the classic French manicure. Once I entered the world of editorial photography, I realized I needed a stronger creative outlet and began teaching myself. I immediately fell in love with the process, because it allowed me to express a side of myself that had been waiting to emerge. A defining moment came when photographer Carlton Davis saw some of my nail art in a magazine and invited me to do a test shoot. He later showed the images to The New York Times Magazine, which decided to publish the concept and reshoot it with jewelry. It became the first nail art story ever featured in the magazine. That project put me on the map creatively and showed me that nails could be a true artistic medium.

How would you describe your work? What’s your trademark?
I’m devoted to the fundamentals of a beautiful manicure, healthy nails, impeccable shape, well-maintained cuticles, and meticulous attention to detail. From the beginning, I trained my technicians to create a natural, rounded square shape that eventually became known among clients as the “JINsoon Shape.” Those fundamentals were drilled into me early in my career and remain the foundation of everything I do. My trademark is what I call elegant simplicity. Whether I’m creating a natural manicure or an artistic look, I want it to feel modern, refined, and intentional.

How has your approach to color evolved over the years, and how do you develop your nail polish collections?
My background in fashion influenced my approach to color from the start. When I launched JINsoon, I introduced 12 shades: 6 timeless classics and 6 fashion-forward colors inspired by the runway. I called them “Fashion in a Bottle” because I wanted to bring runway color directly to consumers. Developing collections remains one of my favorite parts of the business. I usually begin with a theme, story, emotion, or even a single color that sparks an idea. From there, I research, refine the palette, and develop names that help bring the concept to life. My inspiration comes from fashion, art, culture, history, and conversations with both salon clients and fellow manicurists. Great ideas can come from almost anywhere.

You’ve collaborated with Steven Meisel and Pat McGrath throughout the years. What defines a strong collaboration to you?
I’ve worked with Steven (Meisel) and Pat (McGrath) for nearly twenty years. I don’t really think of it as a collaboration in the traditional sense. I was fortunate to be part of their creative team, and over time, it became more like family. Strong creative relationships are built on trust, consistency, mutual respect, and genuine affection. Working with them has expanded my creative vision tremendously, and being welcomed into what I think of as the Meisel family has been one of the great privileges of my career. It’s inspiring to witness how truly creative people think, work, and continually push boundaries. And yes, I love Steven very much.

How did you find the shift from being an artist to running your own business, JINsoon?
My career evolved in stages. Before moving to New York, I owned a small clothing business in a market in Seoul, where I designed and manufactured women’s daily wear apparel. In New York, I was a salon manicurist, then “Bicycle Jin,” riding my ten-speed bike across the city providing home services, then an editorial manicurist, a self-taught nail artist, and eventually the founder of JINsoon. Each stage prepared me for the next. The artistic and business sides of my career developed together. Building a brand has certainly been challenging, but it has also allowed me to bring my ideas to life on a much larger scale.

What’s your process for conceptualizing? Do you start with references, emotions, or something else entirely?
Usually, an idea comes first, although sometimes it’s a color. Once I have that starting point, I research extensively and begin building themes, stories, and visual concepts around it. My inspiration comes from everywhere, fashion, art, history, architecture, nature, and everyday life. I enjoy connecting seemingly unrelated ideas and transforming them into something visually cohesive.

You’ve worked with Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors Collection for over a decade. What has kept those collaborations ongoing, and what have you learned about building long-term creative relationships?
I’ve been fortunate to work with both designers for many years. Long-term creative relationships are built on trust, consistency, and loyalty. Over time, you develop a deep understanding of how each person works, what they value, and how best to support their vision. That familiarity allows creativity to flow more naturally. It also helps that they’re genuinely wonderful people. Their kindness, professionalism, and loyalty have inspired the same commitment from me, which is one reason those relationships have endured.

What would you say are the main differences between creating nail art for shows, editorials, and campaigns?
For fashion shows, speed and clarity are essential. Nails either quietly support the collection or become part of the designer’s statement. My team and I focus on executing the look quickly and beautifully, sometimes creating intricate press-on designs in advance so they can be applied backstage within minutes. Editorials offer the greatest creative freedom, particularly for conceptual stories. This is where I can experiment with textures, colors, and techniques and push ideas further. That said, many luxury fashion editorials still favor clean, understated nails, because they feel timeless and elegant. Campaigns tend to be the most refined. The nails need to complement the brand, product, or talent while contributing to an image that feels polished, aspirational, and enduring. What I enjoy most is understanding the role nails play in each setting. Sometimes the strongest statement is elaborate nail art, and sometimes it’s a perfectly groomed natural nail.

What’s one thing outside of your work that you’d like people to know about you?
I love making things with my hands. I create holiday cards using JINsoon nail art decals, fold origami ornaments, and make abstract paintings. One of my favorite projects was painting a pair of white sneakers Marc Jacobs gave me with nail polish. I’m always creating something. One day, I’d love to bring these projects together in an exhibition. A friend who owns a gallery keeps telling me I’m a good artist, so maybe that dream isn’t completely impossible.

Who’s One to Watch?
I’ve had the pleasure of working with two incredibly talented emerging nail artists who recently helped bring my W Magazine nail art story to life: Rachel Arreola and Armani Je’Ton. They executed highly complex concepts inspired by modern art and sculpture with remarkable precision. Their creativity, craftsmanship, technical skill, and patience were instrumental in transforming ambitious ideas into reality, and I believe they have very bright futures ahead of them.

Selected Work

The reason I chose these images is to show the different facets of my work – from editorial and commercial beauty to conceptual nail art and runway. Together, they represent the journey of my career and the many ways I approach nails as both a beauty and a fashion statement.

Julia Garner for W Magazine | Bella In Black & White for American Vogue
Working with Steven Meisel for more than twenty years has been one of the greatest privileges of my career. As part of his creative team, I’ve had the opportunity to contribute to some of fashion’s most iconic images. These photographs represent the trust, collaboration, and creative growth we’ve shared over the years.

Touchy-Feely for The New York Times
This story was a turning point in my career. It transformed me from being known primarily as a manicurist to being recognized as a nail artist. It was also the first time The New York Times Magazine featured a story dedicated entirely to nail art, making it a milestone both personally and professionally.

Talk to the Hand for W Magazine
This story gave me the freedom to fully express my creativity through nails. Inspired by modern and contemporary art, I created sculptural nail pieces that blurred the line between beauty and art. It was a rare opportunity to produce a story focused entirely on nails, and one of the most rewarding creative experiences of my career.

The Travel Almanac #23 A/W 2023 Covers
This is such an iconic image for me. Working with Linda (Evangelista), one of fashion’s greatest supermodels, and her being photographed by Ethan James Green was incredibly special. The simplicity and elegance of the nails perfectly complement the strength and beauty of the portrait, reflecting my philosophy that sometimes less is more.

Marc Jacobs S/S 27 Show
This runway was especially meaningful because it introduced a new nail technique and trend that I developed with Marc Jacobs’ vision in mind. It was a challenging process that required extensive testing and refinement, but seeing it come to life on the runway made all the hard work worthwhile. It also represents our long-standing creative relationship and the trust we’ve built over many seasons.