Early on the first full day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, at the Monnaie de Paris just off the Seine on the Left Bank, Viktor & Rolf presented a Spring 2012 collection that harkened back to the heyday of the ’70s, with safari jackets, disco-ready tuxedos, and a dolphin print that would not have been out of place at Miami Beach’s Fontainebleau several decades ago. Underneath a coffered ceiling hung with Baroque chandeliers interspersed with stark glowing cubes, the Dutch duo sent out plaid suits, collegiate jackets, and knit shorts in soft pastels and eye-popping primaries that looked comfortable, relaxed, and classic. The clean suits and other iconic pieces were given the subversive V&R twist through accessories like hiking boots and large sunglasses worn over regular eyeglasses, a touch that added a whiff of shuffleboard and afternoon bingo for a nod at another notable portion of Florida’s population. But the overall feel was decidedly more playboy than senior citizen, with slouching sweaters and suede and shearling jackets that were sharp and smart, items that pushed forward while keeping the past firmly in mind. (All images courtesy of Andrew Weir for ACW)
The distinguished designers.
Martin, Thomas, Florian, Alexander
Jacob, Adrien Sahores, Julius
Thomas and Florian Van Bael