Calvin Klein is an American institution, but the label’s menswear shows in New York are few and far between. So when the company announced it would be presenting its Fall 2011 collection in the city it calls home, it was an occasion to bring out the big guns, with Joe Jonas, Zac Efron, and Kellan Lutz in the front row. Designer Italo Zucchelli presented a collection that perfectly summed up the brand’s ethos, with sporty looks that were sharp and structured. Gray was the predominant color, with gorgeous notes of forest green, brick red, and electric blue, a stunning contrast in a season that has seen an overwhelming prevalence of dark tones. Of special interest were a series of overcoats and jackets in black with eye-popping white lining, a sharp look that was both collected and casual.
Zucchelli presented a spot-on distillation of the season’s trends, with sharp suiting and padded jackets that walked the line between minimalist modernism and athletic sportiness. Pants ranged from loose and baggy to sleek and fitted, and coats bunched out in the back, proof that Zucchelli understands that no one silhouette makes a season. Suiting was the main draw here, as in many other collections this year, with sharp double-breasted looks that were timeless yet progressive. The outing also demonstrated the brand’s long history of experimenting with diverse fabrics, from sweatsuit material to puffy coats that may prove to be the only possible flattering iteration of the genre. The show was one of intelligence and humor, with baseball caps finishing off several exits with touching grace notes. The collection was one of the most coherent of the season, demonstrating an instinctual sense of color and proportion, proof that Zucchelli went above and beyond for a showing on the company’s native soil.
1-Runway Image: Dan Lecca courtesy of Calvin Klein. Dimitry/Soul opens Calvin Klein F/W 11
2-Bryant/VNY,CJ Hancock, Luke Briggs
6-Sacha and O’Shea both, Select London
7-New faces and exclusives: Jack Vanderhart and Simon Van Meervenne.
8-David and Harry Goodwins