Behind the Image is an ongoing MODELS.com series taking a more personal look at both established and emerging creative talent.
Nell Kalonji | Image courtesy of Webber Represents
Nell Kalonji, Stylist
Hometown/country: Vienna, Austria
Based: London & Paris
Representation: Webber Represents
How would you describe your work? What’s your trademark?
Character-driven.
How did you first discover your passion for styling, and what led you specifically into the world of styling?
I’ve always loved fashion and costumes. At first, I wanted to be a corsetiere. My mother advised against it since I didn’t grow up in the 1800s—she thought it might be a bit limiting. Then, I wanted to be a costume designer. Who knows, I might still do that at some point. However, when I applied for the course, it was already full, so I enrolled in fashion design instead. I didn’t really know about any other jobs in the industry (aside from becoming a photographer or model). I added a year to my course to also study business and marketing, and for my final project, I organized a fashion show for some of the design graduates. We invited many people, and I met a stylist, Sammy Zayed. He asked me what I was going to do next. I had no idea, so he suggested I come and work for him. Later, I applied for a 3-month internship at Dazed, 3 months turned into a year, and a year turned into a full-time position with Katie Shillingford.
What other jobs have you had?
I mainly worked in restaurants, pubs, bars, and a nightclub for a while—things I could do in the evenings or on weekends after university. Although none of these jobs seemed helpful initially, they taught me a lot about people, which, in the end, does come in handy today.
What inspires your creative process and influences your artistic vision?
I find most of my inspiration from people and characters— whether it’s people I collaborate with, my friends, characters in movies, or people I see walking on the street. I’m always on the lookout for a character. So, when I start preparing for a shoot, I ask myself who the character is, what’s going on in their head, and their personality. Maybe this stems from my original love for costume, which I think has a similar approach. I create an entire storyline about the person’s life in my head. The same goes for shows, and this is what really influences my casting choices.
What have you watched/heard/read lately that has inspired you?
The Power of Now by Eckhart Tolle.
You co-founded the Rubric Initiative, an educational platform dedicated to bringing transparency and equitable practices to marginalized communities in fashion. What do you hope it can change for those it supports?
The fashion industry has traditionally been a world where privilege, connections, and insider knowledge play a huge role in shaping careers. Many young people, particularly from marginalized backgrounds, may feel alienated or excluded because they lack these resources. By demystifying the industry and providing actionable insights into things like salary expectations, career pathways, and the diversity of roles available, we are trying to create a more equitable space for people to enter and navigate the industry.
You’ve worked closely with Shygirl for years, creating memorable looks. How does your collaboration evolve from concept to execution, and how has your dynamic grown over time?
Shy is an ‘emotional dresser’ – it always starts with a feeling. I guess what is different with her from how I work with some of my other clients is that she really often decides what she wants to wear on the day, depending on how she feels at the moment. So we don’t look at each look separately when planning her outfits for a tour or a new album release but more at the world we are creating as a whole. Shy is very involved and knows fashion. We constantly send each other new designers or looks from the collections we have seen, not necessarily with a specific event in mind. It sort of feels like we have this ever-evolving moodboard we collaborate on.
What have been the biggest challenges you have faced professionally?
Imposter syndrome – When I started out, only a few people looked like me in the positions I aspired to, which sometimes made me feel like I didn’t belong and that, at any moment, someone would find out. Luckily, I have a very strong support system – my family
and friends – who uplift me whenever I feel like this. I tell every young creative I meet or mentor: build a community around you that will support you and that you can support in return.
What do you hope viewers take away from experiencing your work?
A feeling – whether they love or hate what I helped create, I hope they feel something.
What do you love about what you do?
I love collaborating with other people—designers, photographers, or talent. I enjoy the exchange of ideas. Sometimes, you start out with a clear vision and think you know exactly what the end result should be. But when you share your vision with your collaborators, and they react to it, and you react to their input, often you end up somewhere totally different—but magical.
Who do you think is one to watch?
Djiby Kebe and the Air Afrique collective.
Selected Work
Saoirse Ronan by Jack Davison | Image courtesy of Webber Represents
British Vogue November 2024 Cover
I recently collaborated with my friend Jack Davison on this Vogue cover, shooting Saoirse Ronan. We had such a great day – I love working with Jack because I hundred percent trust him. It makes your life easier when you have this trust between you and the person you collaborate with.
Shygirl by Charlotte Wales | Image courtesy of Webber Represents
AnOther Magazine Spring/Summer 2023 Covers
I worked with Charlotte Wales on this project. This was a really special one for me because Shy is not only my client but also my friend. Charlotte and I looked at a lot of old paintings and sculptures and worked with Eric Christison on movement. We wanted her to be this incredible muse, which, if you’ve met her, you’d know, comes very naturally to her! It’s Shy’s world, and we just live in it.
Slawn + Beau by Gabriel Moses | Image courtesy of Webber Represents
AnOther Magazine A/W 2023
I love this picture of Slawn and his son Beau. This image was shot for AnOther magazine with Gabriel Moses. It was our second time working together, and we had so much fun. Slawn and Gabriel are really close friends, and it meant a lot to him to shoot him with his son. I think you can feel this by looking at this image. Needless to say, Beau was the star on set.
Divine Mugisha by Nadine Ijewere | Image courtesy of Webber Represents
Luncheon Magazine S/S 2023 Covers
I collaborated with my friend Nadine Ijewere on this story. We shot all these amazing couture pieces for it. I am fascinated with couture. It feels like a fantasy world—something to admire from afar. Even though this beautiful Alaïa look wasn’t officially a couture look, we really wanted to include it because it also felt like a fantasy—a modern fantasy.
By Olu Odukoya | Image courtesy of Webber Represents
Modern Matter AW 19
This is an image from a story I shot with Olu Odukoya for his magazine, Modern Matter. I love the image, but this shoot was also a turning point in my career and the way I approach my work. I really felt like I grew through this experience, and Olu was very instrumental in that.
