The most anticipated show of Paris Fashion Week debuted on Sunday, marking Alessandro Michele’s triumphant return to the runway after a two-year hiatus. For his debut at Valentino, Michele unveiled the S/S 25 collection titled Pavillon des Folies. The setting was intimate and mysterious, with the room draped in white, creating an almost dreamlike backdrop for his coquette maximalist vision. The star-studded front row — Jared Leto, Florence Welch, and Harry Styles — hinted at the romantic opulence to come, echoing Charli XCX’s recent single, Everything is Romantic. Cast by Ben Grimes, the show opened with Summer Dirx in an A-line dress paired with bows and a heart-shaped motif, paired with red leggings — a nod to Valentino’s signature hue and black lace gloves. This was just the beginning of an 80+ look collection that effortlessly referenced the Roaring ‘20s through to the ‘80s. Michele played with ruffles, micro-polka dots, and flapper-style sets in vibrant shades of lemon and gold, while layers of lace and intricate embroidery added a rich, cinematic feel. The accessories were equally dramatic, with models sporting colossal hats, silk turbans, and even two bags at once, all styled with round-lens sunglasses and delicate face-framing veils. These pieces complemented Michele’s celebration of maximalism, yet remained true to the Valentino legacy of elegance and sophistication.
