Jonathan Anderson continues to deftly play with uncanny proportions, and his S/S 25 collection is no exception. Using just four materials – cashmere knit, leather, silk, and sequins — J.W. Anderson transformed familiar silhouettes into something fresh and unexpected. Cast by Ashley Brokaw, one of his muses Libby Bennett, who made her debut at last year’s show, opened the collection in a burgundy mini-dress with 3D-printed trompe l’oeil effects mimicking a button-up knit. That same design appeared in sequined and cerulean silk versions, each adding a new dimension to the look. Models strutted down the runway in low-leather biker boots paired with tutu-like hemlines and deconstructed knit layers that swayed effortlessly. Sleek bomber jackets in army green and midnight blue added a tough edge. Among the standout pieces were the oversized knit ensembles in crosshatched patterns of snowy white and smoke-grey. As if ripped from the book, Anderson also integrated printed text from Clive Bell’s doctrine on art and design, featured on minidresses and sweaters, as a metaphor for fashion’s need to “start from a blank page.” With this collection, Anderson once again challenges conventional notions of fashion, leaving us eager to see what creative page he will write next.
