Behind the Image is an ongoing MODELS.com series taking a more personal look at both established and emerging creative talent.
Ramona Eschbach | Image courtesy of Total Management
Ramona Eschbach, Hair Stylist
Hometown/country: California
Based: Paris, France
Representation: Total Management
How would you describe your work? What’s your trademark?
First and foremost, I care about making the person in front of me feel and look their most beautiful. Whether shaving half a head or frizzing the hair out, I am always aware of the face shape, hairline, and texture to ensure the model looks good. My trademark is a great haircut, frizzy texture, and a soft hairline. Not necessarily all at once.
How did you first discover your passion for hair, and what led you specifically into the world of hair?
Doing hair is something I’ve always done since I was a kid. I was obsessed with my hair and trying to get the right texture and cut. I used to put soft rollers in my hair at night to have curly hair when I was around ten years old. Then, I finally convinced my mom to send me to a real salon to get a bob when I was about 12. My parents were hippies, so no one was going to the salon. I started cutting everyone’s hair when I was about 13 and, at the same time, became obsessed with fashion magazines, buying Allure, Seventeen, Mademoiselle, Bazaar, YM, and Vogue every month and religiously reading all the credits. I knew all the hairstylists, makeup artists, models, and designers working at the time. I never seriously considered it as a career for me until I finished high school and went to beauty school for fun before going to real college, which obviously never happened as I started working right away.
You started training at Bumble and Bumble as a hairstylist before assisting Eugene Souleiman. How did you connect to Eugene, and what was the turning point that inspired you to venture out independently?
Eugene, at the time, was doing a ton of shows. He was killing it. I was at Bumble as an assistant, and they sent me to Paris and Milan to assist their big contracted editorial hairstylists, Ward Stegerhoek, Laurent Philippon, and Orlando Pita, among others. Eugene didn’t have a contract with Bumble at the time, so I didn’t get on his shows that season. The following season, Bumble didn’t send me, and I was pissed… so I sent myself! There was another hairstylist who worked at Bumble named Bok Hee, who was Eugene’s first. I was hustling up some assistant work in Milan with anyone I could, and I ran into Bok Hee on the street. She said Eugene needed some extra hands, so she brought me along with her, and that’s how I got on his team! I worked with him on all his shows and was his assistant whenever he was in NYC for shoots for the next five or so years. It got to a point where I had learned so much with Eugene and had been a part of the team for so long that I felt like I needed to create my own identity and style. I always knew I wanted to have my own career, and after ten years in NY, I was ready to move on. Moving to Paris kind of ended my time with Eugene. I still worked with him for a few seasons on shows after I moved to Paris, but I knew I had to create my own identity.
Growing up in California and then living in New York and now Paris, have those cities influenced your aesthetic in any way?
Definitely! California was a great place to be a kid. The surf, skate, punk, Hollywood, and hippy culture I grew up in influenced my aesthetic. Being surrounded by all those subcultures was inspiring and influential to me as a youth. That’s what made me want to move to NY. I thought it would be just like a Woody Allen movie. In the end, NY was tough. I worked hard and learned a lot. It was my first time living away from home. I was pretty naive and got my ass kicked! Haha, no regrets, though. It gave me a super strong foundation for my craft. Haircut training at Bumble with Howard and Raymond Maclaren was such a gift. Meeting Eugene and being part of his team at the time was also life-changing. NY was really a training ground for me. I was able to work hard, meet a ton of people, and find my identity. After being in NY for ten years (a great time, 1998-2008), I moved to Paris for the freedom it gave me. I didn’t know anyone or have any expectations. I just knew I was over NY and didn’t want to go back to California. I didn’t put any pressure on myself like in NY and allowed myself to enjoy life. In the end, I didn’t think I would stay so long, but it’s been 16 years, so I guess I like it!
What other jobs have you had?
Ice cream scooper at 31 Flavours, thrift store worker, coffee shop barista, then hair salon.
Can you share your experience collaborating with Simon Porte Jacquemus, as you have consistently worked with the brand since 2015?
Honestly, it’s been such a wonderful ride with him. He’s very clear about his vision for each collection, which makes it easy as we are able to communicate well. I remember his S/S 2017 show. At the test, he showed me a kind of doll made out of a corn husk, I think? Something from the south of France from his childhood. That was his inspiration for the test. He just showed me the doll, gave me a little backstory, and left the room. Dick Page was doing the makeup at the time, and we just did our thing. Simon came back and was like, “Yep, that’s it.” Easy! The fact that he’s so young and his team is all around his age or younger is very inspiring to me. They are from a different generation than me but very confident and self-assured. It makes working with them exciting!
What have you watched, heard, or read lately that has inspired you?
Anatomy of a Fall was incredible. It was so subtle and smart; I loved it. Also, Triangle of Sadness was insane and hilarious. I’m just starting The Unbearable Lightness of Being by Milan Kundera, and so far, it’s keeping my interest! I have a stack of books I’ve been recommended and am looking forward to getting into this summer. Three Women by Lisa Taddeo and The Vanity Fair Diaries by Tina Brown are a few on my list.
What do you love about what you do?
I love the people. I love meeting all these different characters from all over the world who are passionate about the same things I am. I feel so lucky to be able to make a living doing what I love to do!
What have been the biggest challenges you have faced professionally?
When I was younger, working with the models was challenging, to be honest. As a young woman myself, I was constantly comparing myself to them and didn’t have the confidence, age, experience, or gender to feel like I knew what I was doing and not be insecure. Many of the other freelance hairdressers my age were men and could flirt with or be best friends with the models, but that wasn’t something I could do easily. I think now that I’m so much older and removed from my early 20s, I’m much more confident and able to relate to the models in a different way.
What’s one thing outside of your work that you would like people to know about you?
Haha, well, if you ask my assistant, he would say that I’m actually funny and nice. I would say I’m a good balance of an American living in Paris. That is to say, I’ve never felt so American since I moved to Paris, but at the same time, I’m very European in aesthetics and lifestyle.
Who do you think is one to watch?
One of my longtime assistants, Alan Antoine, is doing great work! Every time I recommend him, the clients are super happy. He has a wonderful attitude and has really grown technically in the past few years since he’s been with me.
Selected Work
Jan Baiboon by Carlijn Jacobs | Image courtesy of Total
Dazed Magazine Autumn 2022 Covers
I chose this as it’s a perfect example of hair in movement, which I love. It’s extreme and leaves an impression. We used about three wind machines to move Jan’s hair, plus I added a few extensions and made sure her hair was as dry and frizzy beforehand to create as much volume and movement as possible for the image.
By Julien Martinez Leclerc | Image courtesy of Total
Study Magazine, 2023
I love the images from this shoot as they all have my favorite texture: frizz! The first two images use the natural texture of the model’s hair, and in the last image, I created the texture using pins/irons and products. Sadly, most people hate frizz and do everything they can to get rid of it. I think it’s beautiful, and it’s one of my favorite textures to work with.
Kiki Willems by Angelo Pennetta | Image courtesy of Total
Unexpectedly Juxtaposed
I love this image. It was a wig we tried mid-shoot. I had bought it not knowing if we would use it and insisted on trying it on after a few shots to show the team, even if it wouldn’t work. It worked, and we kept it for a few more images! I’m not a big wig person or planner before a shoot. I tend to be inspired when I arrive on set after seeing the clothes/model/ mood board. I like to bring lots of options and try things out as the shoot progresses.
Anna Ewers by Bruno Staub| Image courtesy of Total
Vogue Italia, 2023
I chose this image as it’s a great representation of a simple hairstyle (a ponytail) that, with the right texture, movement, and styling can be a strong look. It’s nothing fancy or difficult, but sometimes simplicity is strong enough.
Nora Svenson by Tim El Kaïm| Image courtesy of Total
Double Magazine FW22/23
This image is a great example of making the most of a model who is open to changing their look. Nora already had short hair, but she let me cut it however I wanted. Ultimately, I did a double Mohawk/mullet/baby bang situation. It was fun! The final image and her orangey hair color are beautiful and elegant.
