Before emerging as a muse for Dior and securing her place on Models.com Top 50 rankings, South Sudanese-Australian model Abény Nhial, was rooted in the collegiate world of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology. As a profession, modeling hadn’t crossed her mind until supportive others urged her to explore, and the Aussie eventually contacted agencies around her home base of Queensland. Her international debut came amid the COVID-19 pandemic’s unfolding — a time marked by challenges and uncertainties of her future success. Yet just two months later after her runway beginnings, she serendipitously landed her first cover for British Vogue’s March 2022 issue. Remarkably, she hadn’t been initially cast for the cover; it was editor-in-chief Edward Enninful who recognized her potential, calling her in for the final cast. Since then, the top model has been featured in campaigns for Ferragamo and DSquared2 and has worked with top photographers like Rafael Pavarotti, Nadine Ijewere, and Elizaveta Porodina. Models.com spoke to Nhial about some of the challenges black models face, adapting to new routines, and working with people whom she admires.
Pop Magazine by Arnaud Lajeunie | Image courtesy of Elite New York City
Where are you originally from?
I’m originally from South Sudan, and then I grew up in Australia. I moved to Australia when I was about six years old, and I had been there until I came to London in 2021.
How did you get discovered?
When I was in primary school and high school, people would tell me to be a model, but it was something that I never took seriously because I just thought, “That’s so random.” When I started university, I completed one year of uni and then halfway through, I thought, “You know what? Let me try this modeling stuff. I may as well try it out before committing to some sort of degree.” So I applied to heaps of agencies in Queensland, and they got back to me. From there, I chose my mother agency, and now I’m here.
I noticed that you opened shows in Sydney during your first season before making your international debut at Alexander McQueen in London. How was that first-year experience working during the pandemic? Do you remember what it felt like for you in the beginning? What emotions were running through your mind?
When I first started modeling, it was a whole new world to me. I realized that to create a single photo, you need an entire team. Before I started modeling, I didn’t know that you needed hair, makeup, a creative director, a stylist, and a manicurist. I also didn’t know you needed numerous shots just to pick one photo. When I started modeling, I saw the beauty behind the work but when I first started working, I was really shy because, obviously, I didn’t know what I was doing. I didn’t understand the industry, I didn’t know how to pose. However, everyone I worked with welcomed me into the industry in a very friendly and nice way, which made me feel comfortable. Whenever I went to work, it was just fun for me. I didn’t think of it as work, and every day I was learning something new and was surrounded by the most amazing people. I remember the industry being very different in Australia compared to now because I did start during the pandemic. I began in Sydney, and all my jobs were there, so it was actually easier for me as I didn’t have to travel as much as I do now. I would just get picked up by the driver in the morning, head to the studio, and then return home. So I had a more stable lifestyle. However, here in Europe, I feel like it’s constant travel every other week, flying to different countries.
W Magazine by Nadine Ijewere | Image courtesy of Elite New York City
How have you managed to cope with the constant flying and the frequent trips to different countries?
I think I’m still honestly figuring it out. It’s a lot. Of course, it’s enjoyable, and once I’m on set, I have so much fun that I even forget I’m working. But the traveling is a lot. I’m still in the process of adapting because I’m someone who thrives on routine. In this industry, there are a lot of last-minute changes. For example, I might have a potential show tomorrow that gets canceled, but then the day after, I have a confirmed job in New York and have to fly there unexpectedly. It’s been a significant adjustment. It’s both stressful and fun at the same time.
Before you started modeling, did you have something in mind that you wanted to do, like a career you wanted to focus on? Or were you just always set on modeling?
No, actually, I never thought I was going to model. It was never a part of my life goals. It just kind of happened. In university, I was studying for a Bachelor of Science, majoring in Biochemistry and Molecular Biology. I love science. I’m a very curious person; I love asking questions and learning. So, before I started modeling, that was actually my path. I just wanted to do something in science. I didn’t know exactly what I wanted to do, but I knew in my heart and soul that I just had to do something in science. However, modeling was more of something I just wanted to try out and see; I did it for the experience since people would always tell me to do it. And once I started modeling, I fell in love with it.
Do you ever think that you could go back to school to study science or something else?
Yes, definitely. When I become more stable in my modeling career, I’ll probably do it part-time or after, because even now, I still read my science books. I’m constantly researching because it’s something I’m genuinely interested in.
Your first cover was for British Vogue, the February 2022 issue, photographed by Rafael Pavarotti. What was your reaction when you found out that you were booked, and what does that cover represent to you?
It’s funny because I wasn’t initially supposed to be on that cover. They had already cast their eight original models, and then a week before the shooting began, my agents asked if I wanted to be a fit model for British Vogue. So I thought, “Why not?” They were shooting for two days. The first day, I was working with Alona from British Vogue. We were doing fittings on the first day, and then the next week, on a Monday, Edward Enninful joined us. I obviously knew who he was, but I was too shy to approach him. So I didn’t say hello or anything. However, I had to try on an outfit, and Alona was taking photos of me. Everyone looked at me and said., “You’re so beautiful!” I replied, “Oh, thank you, haha, whatever.” Then Edward said, “I’m going to add you to the cover of British Vogue.” I was completely shocked. It was so unexpected. I hadn’t anticipated that at all. I was left speechless, just standing there like, “What?” The other girls were congratulating me, saying, “Congratulations. We’re so happy for you,” and so on. Yet, I was still in shock. I didn’t even know if he was serious. I thought, “Okay, maybe he’s just hyping me up.” But I said, “Thank you.” Later that day, he messaged my agent right away, informing them that I was added to the British Vogue cover.
How was the process of shooting that cover and working with Rafael Pavarotti? Do you have any standout moments from that shoot?
It was actually so much fun. It was a long day, as most shoot days tend to be, it was also the first time I had worked with other Black models; prior to that, I had never shot with another Black model. It was all new to me, and many of them were models I had looked up to. So, I was so excited to work with them and gain advice from them. They were also very kind. On set, we were dancing, and getting to know each other. I remember laughing and dancing; the vibes were amazing. Rafael is such a great photographer. He’s friendly and offers great direction. When I was in front of the camera with him, I felt comfortable. I wasn’t stressed or nervous. Also,I was painted silver in one of the photos, which was both random and cool. What made it even more incredible was that the whole team was Black, which was new for me. I had never worked with a Black photographer, hairstylist, makeup artist, or stylist/creative director before. It was all a new experience. I was speechless the whole time, and to be honest, it was one of the best experiences I’ve ever had.
An all-black team/cast sounds like an amazing experience, given that it can be so rare in the industry.
You’re absolutely right. When I initially entered the industry, I wasn’t fully aware of that. In Australia, for instance, representation and the number of Black models are limited. I used to think, “Maybe there just aren’t many Black models in Australia.” However, I never questioned, “Why aren’t more Black models being scouted? Why isn’t that a priority?” Even when I did the British Vogue cover, I didn’t immediately realize how lacking the industry was in terms of diversity and representation. At that time, I was quite new, having just started my international debut about two months prior. As I continued to work and participate in more shows, I began to notice the significant lack of diversity. During an interview with British Vogue, I was asked about my industry experience, and I couldn’t help but express my excitement and amazement. But later on, I experienced the reality. Now, I can see both the positive aspects and the shortcomings in the industry’s representation of Black women and how we’re treated.
Have there been any specific moments or experiences that have left a lasting impact and haven’t been positive?
Absolutely, for example, during certain shoots or shows, they might include one or two Black girls just for the sake of claiming representation. It’s quite evident, and they don’t even try to hide it. Even seemingly small matters like hairstyling can be problematic. I’ve been part of many shows where I didn’t feel confident because they would braid my hair poorly. Braiding isn’t that complex, but they make it seem so. Also, sometimes my makeup does not blend with my skin tone, which often leads me to redo my makeup in the bathroom often. Speaking up is difficult.
H&M A metaverse design story A/W 2022 Campaign by Rafael Pavarotti | Image courtesy of Elite New York City
You were recently featured in the Dior Fall/Winter ’23 campaign. I understand you’ve walked for the brand nearly 10 times, creating a long history with them. Are there any standout moments from your experience working with the Dior team?
I’ve been collaborating with Dior for over a year now, and I must say, I absolutely adore them. It’s like I’ve formed a family not only with them but also with all my fellow models. Long-lasting friendships have blossomed since we share every show and journey to various countries together. For example, we’ve traveled to Korea, India, and Seville, and during these times, some of the best memories of my life were created with Dior. I’ve come to know the entire team. Whenever I walk in a Dior show, the nerves go away. While my first show did make me anxious, every time I step onto the Dior runway now, I’m filled with excitement and a sense of belonging. I hold so much love for Michelle Lee, the entire Dior creative team, the styling team, and all my fellow models.
You were nominated as a breakout star for the 2022 Model of The Year. How did it feel to receive this recognition, and what drives you to excel in your career?
To be honest, I wasn’t aware of that category’s existence. While I knew about the Model of the Year award, I assumed that was the only accolade. So, when I came across this nomination, I was genuinely taken aback. I thought, “Oh my goodness, wow.” It made me value my hard work more because I usually tend to downplay it. This recognition highlighted that my efforts are genuine, that I truly give it my all, and that I’m worthy of recognition and great achievements. Also, all the hard work that my agents have put in and the casting directors that pushed me. Witnessing my name in that category was a beautiful realization, and seeing my friends being nominated made me so happy.
What would you say was one of the biggest challenges you faced in your career so far, and how have you been able to move past it?
I’d say the disruption of routines and being away from home, since I miss my family a lot. Also, the constant traveling takes a toll; it’s surprising how tiring it can be. Staying healthy is another challenge. Before entering the modeling world, I always ate homemade meals. However, now that I’m always in different countries, I often rely on Uber Eats or eat at restaurants. Another challenge I faced during Fashion Week was dealing with multiple castings each day. Models may make it look easy, but it’s not. Also, during the actual runway shows, we’re instructed to walk at a face pace. I’m naturally not a fast walker; I prefer to take my time, but I don’t mind doing it, I just had to get used to it. I really enjoy couture shows, as they allow me to take my time.
Speaking of couture, you’ve worn so many iconic looks for Schiaparelli. How did it feel to be cast in Daniel Roseberry‘s first ready-to-wear show? How do you feel when you wear Schiaparelli?
Honestly, Schiaparelli holds a special place in my heart, and it’s quite possibly my favorite couture show. When I wear Schiaparelli, I feel divine and like a walking masterpiece. Daniel Roseberry’s exceptional talent aside, he’s genuinely the kindest person. I remember the first time I was cast for Schiaparelli, I walked in, and he was incredibly warm. He laughed and conversed like a regular person. Most creative directors don’t show that openness when you first meet them. He remembered my name since that day and treated all the models with utmost respect. Each time I grace the Schiaparelli runway, it’s a joy. Even the ready-to-wear collection was beautiful — I fall in love with every piece that he makes every time.
Looking back on your career so far, what significant milestones, highlights, or unforgettable experiences stand out the most to you?
Every aspect of my journey has been memorable. I’ve gathered beautiful moments from each job and experience, so I find it challenging to pick a single standout. I’ve learned and grown in certain situations, while in others, I’ve been blessed with the best memories that will forever remain with me, shaping the person I am today.
Are there any dream brands or collaborators in the industry that you aspire to work with?
Honestly, I’ve had the privilege of collaborating with all the brands I’ve ever dreamt of. Looking ahead, my focus is to cultivate stronger relationships with my current clients and the brands I already collaborate with. Of course, I’m open to exploring opportunities with other brands, but right now, I’m working with brands that I really love and look up to and with people that I’ve looked up to for a while. I’m just grateful for this moment. I am excited about whatever the universe has in store for me, but for now, I love everyone that I work with.
