Joshua Woods for M Le Monde | Courtesy of CLM
Sculptural ponytails, perfectly picked afros, elaborate braids, sideswept tresses, kiss curls, finger waves—it would take a glossary of hair terms to do proper justice to hairstylist Issac Poleon’s repertoire. The London-based hair savant has racked up a notable list of projects along his “journey” (which he notes he feels is just starting), having worked with major fashion brands, publications and celebrities alike, counting names such as Calvin Klein, Valentino, FENTY, and Another Magazine among his clientele.
With a busy professional roster, plans to relaunch a studio and several projects “under construction,” it’s no wonder Poleon could be heard scurrying around London (with plenty of “sorry love”s sprinkled throughout to acknowledge the mad dash) as he recalled his casual foray into the world of hair and the exhilaration it’s brought since. “Sometimes I’m like, when will my life not be chaotic,” he questions. Models.com contributor Nia Groce spoke with Poleon on his work, collaborating on set and beyond, and advice for emerging stylists.
Campbell Addy for British Vogue | Courtesy of CLM
How did you get started in this industry? Was there a moment when you knew that hair styling is what you wanted to do?
I was just trying to figure some stuff out and a lady who I used to live with basically had this hairstylist and was like, ‘you should try this.’ I was really open at the time, I just needed to make some money. She introduced me to her hairstylist and I started working with the salon and to be honest with you, I’ve been there since.
Oh wow. How many years has that been?
Oh, God. It’ll be 13, 14 years this year.
When you started working with that hairstylist, is that where you learned most or all of your skills?
Yeah, it was one of the most reputable Black hair salons in London at the time. They were huge in the 90s. The hairstylist that I was working with was more known for barbering, but he worked in this hair salon and the rest is just history.
How did you even know that you would like it? What was the connection for you to get into hair styling?
To be honest with you, I literally had nothing to lose. I was very much in an open space and at the time, dancing wasn’t paying the bills. I wanted to do something that wasn’t retail. I know I’m not a retail girl. I needed something practical, and I was open. I didn’t know I was going to love it. I was 17 and I just took the chance.
Do you remember what your first big moment was, the turning point where you broke out?
I did a Fenty campaign when Rihanna brought out her first jewelry collection called Cameo Collection. That was such a pinch-me moment because I was working at ASOS maybe six months before that. Then I had this option to show her how to shave someone’s hair.
Rihanna and Mette Towley in Lemon by N.E.R.D
Your work seems sculptural and sharp, but there’s also softness and complexity to it. How would you personally describe your signature look or feel? Is there one?
I’m still trying to figure that out. It’s been a topic of conversation for me the last few months about what my aesthetic necessarily is. I consider myself quite a malleable person. I’m finding it hard to sit there [on one particular aesthetic]. I guess what I portray is something that’s more sculptural, but where I trained was very diverse in its methods. I can do a lot more than I’ve portrayed and I’m still trying to figure it out.
When you’re working with models and your clients in general, how much control do you have manipulating their hair? Or what might that might look like based on the different publications or talent at hand?
It’s super subjective. I’ve learned the ability to sometimes take a back seat. That’s part of the creative process that I’m navigating right now. It’s hard to sum up…I think I’m like a chameleon. I work with a client called Flannels [for example]. They’re family to me, a client family. They give me so much creative control and allow me to interpret their creativity in the way that I feel is best to portray them.
“…it’s important to control your ego…some people want you to do what you do, and then some people just want you to do it.”
But then you’ve got other clients, for instance, covers of magazines. They have an idea of what they want, you produce it and there’s sometimes little to none [creative control]. Talent generally has the ability to control how they want to look, very different from when you’re working with a model. If I was speaking directly to someone who is starting in the industry, I would say it’s important to control your ego. The social beauty climate that we live in now is still very much formulating and changing. What I’ve learned in the last few months particularly is that some people want you to do what you do, and then some people just want you to do it.
What are you inspired by?
Generally, my inspiration comes from the world. I follow a lot of amazing hairstylists who send me so much love. There’s so many, honestly, I don’t feel like I always take direct inspiration from artists personally, but I’m quite a visual person and I do digest creative. Sometimes I look at the structures of the tree and when I’m doing mood boards, it’s not necessarily always hair. Sometimes it’s objects and structures outside of the realm of beauty. I think that hair can be manipulated into shapes. Anything that has a shape, I guess you can convert into hair.
How does coming up in and working in London add to your creativity?
It’s hard to answer that because I haven’t really touched any part of the world other than when I’m traveling with a client. To be honest with you, I’m looking into taking up some space in the US, traveling a little bit and just seeing what happens. London’s provided my foundation, my family’s here. I will always feel at home here and be based here. It’s given me a sense of security. It’s given me a platform that has propelled me into places that I’ve never dreamed of.
I pinched myself the other day because I was like, ‘I’m in the room with Gabrielle Union.’ I remember growing up watching her on Bring It On and I’ve [now] shared spaces with the likes of Angela Bassett, Jamie Foxx and all these A-list people. And I’m like, ‘wow, I’m really a part of something.’ And I’m not even a part of it in that way. I’m still very [new] in this and figuring a lot out. London has definitely created a safe place for me.
Daniel Sachon for ES Mag | Courtesy of CLM
Are there any new hairstyles or trends that you’ve been wanting to try?
There are a few. One of my favorites is watching these girls from LA that are basically installing frontals on locs—that’s iconic. Literally, I’m talking about changing this whole girl’s look by just covering her locs and it’s a new style, new wave vibe. I can’t wait to jump in. There’s also these boho straight hair locs and that’s really fab. I’m obsessed with these salon girls. Because they’re actually eating up the whole thing.
Are there any dream clients on your mood board?
The lamb in me still wants to do Mariah Carey. I always say I would just eat that situation up in a crazy way. Who else is there? Janet Jackson, Mary J. Blige—real old school, one of the girls that just want that good [classic look] because I feel like their aesthetic aligns a lot with the stuff that I love to do. Classic hair, polished, very beautiful. I will gag if that situation comes.
What advice do you have for any aspiring hairstylists on breaking into the industry?
Be brave and authentic. Authenticity is underrated and what we are in right now is pre-conceptual, so when you get comfortable with the fact that you are coming into something that was created a long time ago, what you bring to the table is unique to you. The minute you stop trying to emulate and assimilate and be authentic to who you are, it will allow you to [stand out].
Even with Instagram, people always tell me I need to post. I’m not in that space and I’m comfortable in that. I know that I’m also blessed. I understand it’s not the same for everyone, but this is the best part of my journey. No one knew me before when I was bringing my suitcase on the train and working overnight trying to get shit together because I had no help. It’s a journey. Trust yourself and trust the process. Your instinct is your best friend. If you trust that, then it’s down to timing really. Divine timing is for everybody and what will be, will be for you.
