Glenn Martens Pushes the Boundaries of Textile Deconstruction for Y/Project F/W 23

Alex M and Irina Kravchenko | All images by Elodie Chapuis

Yet again, Glenn Martens proved his denim deconstruction expertise with his latest Y/Project F/W 23 Show. The show occurred at a construction site at the Institut Français de la Mode, setting the perfect stage for Martens’ innovative prowess in distorting heavy textiles like leather and frayed denim into a disentangled theme featured throughout the collection. Cast by Anita Bitton, Leelou Laridan opened the show in a sheer top paired with high-waisted jean boots featuring sliced, open cuts on the side. The collection’s color palette was rich and varied, with jewel tones and earthy hues peeping through the denim fringes that adorned sweaters, jeans, tops, collars, and hoodies. The addition of playful touches of neon and metallic added a clever edge to the designs. Fresh off his hot-selling collab with Jean Paul Gaultier, Martens also brought back his signature kaleidoscopic prints of explicit scenes that were warped and printed on maxi dresses and tops.

The collection featured voluminously sculptured silhouettes with unexpected combinations of fabrics and patterns like wool coats etched with denim to millefeuille denim bombers that looked light as a feather, and dizzyingly buttoned paneled pants where skin peeked through. One standout look was a cozy, texturized wool jumpsuit with orange feathering details worn by Alyssa Sardine. Audacious accessories were also a key element of the show, with denim belts, baggy denim boots, and statement metallic hand earrings and necklaces that resembled belts. To close the show, Chen Xi wore a two-piece ash denim look that resembled a look straight out of Mad Max. The Y/Project F/W 23 show left us eager to see what Y/Project and Glenn Martens will do next.

All photos by Elodie Chapuis for

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