Behind the Image is an ongoing MODELS.com series taking a more personal look at both established and emerging creative talent.
Lee Wei Swee, photographer
Hometown: Payerne, Switzerland
Based: Paris, France
Representation: Self
How would you describe your work? What’s your trademark?
My work is rather formalist; colors and compositions usually are the first things people notice. Generally I’ve been influenced a lot by Japanese photographers of the avant-garde, Gondry, Aphex Twin, Peter Greenaway, Matthew Barney… I guess what I loved about them was their twisted view on reality and a certain taste for Gesamtkunzwerk. But I also like to see my work as metaphorical evocations of topics that run in my head, in somewhat of a spiritual approach. I like to think of fashion (or art, photography, film) not only as an expression tool but as an offering to its own audience. I like the idea of dressing up and putting make-up on not only to seduce or attract attention but also to give some form of pleasure to whoever will see you. I remember Max Bill believing more in a societal function of art rather than self-expression. I guess the more I grow old the more this is true for me.
How did you get into your chosen career?
As a kid growing up in MTV’s golden age, I spent my teenage years playing streetball, doing skateboarding and watching the music video clips of Chris Cunningham, Michel Gondry, Stephane Sednaoui, Spike Jonze, etc. I was really attracted to this medium, there was something extremely attractive to me in the idea of making a visually exciting piece in collaboration with other artists. I believe there is a component of psychology or even therapy in my work; I usually try to understand as much as I can the people I’m working with and their motivations, desires, and egos.
What other jobs have you had?
Even if my parents supported me a lot in my studies and early years, photography remains an extremely expensive practice. In order to make a living and pay for my studies, I did a bunch of jobs in my 20s. I’ve worked as a gardener, construction worker, farmer’s helper, cleaner… In my last year of studies, I even started a bootleg sandwich business in my school (the lunch options were scarce) before eventually getting busted by the school’s administration.
What have you watched/heard/read lately that has inspired you?
Anomalisa, and generally Charlie Kaufman’s work. The Farewell and Ocean Vuong’s books also, for what they taught me about my mixed identity and how other artists experience it.
What do you love about what you do?
Getting to work with a bunch of nerds in their domains.
What have been the biggest challenges you have faced professionally?
Not giving into making more sellable works (especially when I was 5 months late paying my rent). Stopping comparing myself to my peers.
What’s one thing outside of your work that you would like people to know about you?
I’m a humanist anarchist.
Who do you think is one to watch?
I met and befriended Jorique a couple of years ago, we’re somewhat funnily connected; we’re born exactly 10 years apart, day for day, we both skate (or used to), and share the same kind of taste in photography. He’s really a nice guy and I’m sure he’s going to have a great career.
Another friend I met at Emulsion, the first collective darkroom in Paris (probably one of my favorite places in the city, Luis and David really created a hub for photographers, in a very nice, kind atmosphere), Jeremy Konko, has a great vision.
Lastly, Nicola Delorme, who dove into fashion at a more mature time of his life. His work is sublime and I find it very interesting to see a profile like him (very versed in theoretical topics, in a near academic way) in fashion.
Selected Work
Timothée Chalamet, Vogue
This was a mad mad shoot. Somehow my producer Jocelyn managed to get us this insane villa for the shoot and surprisingly the most cost-effective way was for the crew to sleep in it. I remember Timothée had to leave for a call with Denis Villeneuve after the shoot, but at midnight, as the crew and I were having a bit of a party, I got a text message from his assistant, asking if he could join. First time a movie star crashed a party of mine, hope it’s not the last.
Versace Jeans, S/S 2021
This was probably one of the most enjoyable client and art director collaborations I’ve had so far. Both Allegra (Versace) and Ken Tokunaga were very open and great at guiding me. I think they even said at some point “if you’re happy, we’re happy”. Sometimes you get clients whose trust makes you want to do the absolute best, wish it was always like this.
Worldtour, personal project
This is a portrait we took with my friend and extremely talented make-up artist Cécile on top of our hotel in Bangkok. It was quite a tricky shot; we had massive cockroaches roaming around and the exposure was about 2 minutes. Needless to say, she was a little nervous about the shot.
Untitled
This is a style I am actually interested in going back to. I’ve done so much strong saturated work lately that more toned-down images and black and white seem very appealing to me.
Cécile
This is another portrait of my friend and make-up artist Cécile. At the time I was exploring new color combinations, trying to get away from the colorways that I used to work with, trying to find what would be the “colors of the future” within the past.
