How does one reinvent that which feels familiar? For Peter Do it meant focusing on the groundwork that his first live show gave audiences last season and hitting the reset button on signature silhouettes. The show notes describe the color palette as ‘discerningly edited’ with an austere monochromatic palette of white, black, gray, chocolate and camel brown, washed anew with technicolor lights. The playful novelty of muted colors last season was gone here, meaning you had to focus on the clothes; a strategic tactic unveiling Do’s strengths of expert tailoring on elongated vests and outerwear, fused with contrasted panels that will be coveted when frigid temperatures roll in. His accessories are getting bolder as long pleated maxi skirts gave way to stacked leather belts, adorned with harness and oversized bag styles lending to the image of a powerful woman on the go, perhaps energy needed as we slowly crawl (or are dragged) back into offices. The key beauty look was skillfully led by Jawara, Aaron de Mey and Jin Soon Choi with a Nicola Kast ran lineup led by current house muse Steph Shiu, who scored the show music and is fresh off the brand’s latest campaign. Soon after, names that have been off the New York scene for years finally made their return including Bente Oort, Sohyun Jung, Jamily Wernke Meurer, Kaila Wyatt, Indira Scott, Qun Ye and closed by Barbara Valente.
