Versatility Is Vital for Surrealist Makeup Artist Chiao Li Hsu

It’s still a bit challenging to describe exactly what London-based makeup artist Chiao Li Hsu’s distinct signature styles are, as versatility is the basis of each look she carefully creates. Hsu was born in China and grew up in the Netherlands and has always loved makeup, from a young age, she would often use a ballpoint pen or coloring pencils to change models’ makeup while skimming through magazines, altering looks to her preference. Eventually, she went on to take makeup classes to learn classic techniques, and ironically after finishing those classes, she tried to unlearn those skills. As Hsu says, “to be truly creative, it’s good to have no limits as far as imagination and creativity goes.” Models.com spoke to the whimsical artist about what beauty means to her, the challenges she faced starting out, and the importance of working with like-minded creatives.


Photo by Rafael Pavarotti. Model: Adhel Bol. Image courtesy of Chiao Li Hsu

How did you get into makeup? Were you always interested in becoming a makeup artist?
Yes, I’ve always loved makeup. Even as a child, I would change the makeup on magazine covers and magazines by using a ballpoint pen or coloring pencils. I didn’t have makeup. But I would draw on top of the images in magazines.

What has been one of your favorite makeup looks that you’ve created?
I really loved the surreal makeup I created, inspired by vintage Schiaparelli. It’s a look that’s surreal, with a beautiful lip and blusher, but also linework and a 3D element. It sounds like a lot, but I feel it’s a balanced look.


Photo by Laura Okita. Model: Liu Huan. Image courtesy of Chiao Li Hsu

How would you describe your work?
I find it very difficult to describe my work. There are so many things I like. Very minimalistic with just gorgeous skin, graphic face paint, colourful body paint, a classic red lip, minimalistic line work. I love the versatility of makeup. I do really love to add a hint of surrealism to my work. But the most important part of my work is of course, making the person I’m working on as gorgeous as possible. I also love the collaborative aspect of my work, creating beauty with a team of talented people.

You recently worked alongside Rafael Pavarotti on the December issue of British Vogue. As you both use vibrant color palettes in your work, do you have any highlights from working on that issue together?
Rafael is so incredibly creative and so amazing to work with! I really love what a collaborative process it always is working with him. I feel everything works so great together in this shoot with the psychedelic vibes and the bold colors! One of my favorite images is the one with Jan Baiboon’s body painted in blue and green. I remember it being one of the last images and it was a lot of work getting it done, but it was totally worth it. And when I saw the image on set, I was blown away by how beautiful it was.


Photo by Rafael Pavarotti. Model:Jan Baiboon. Image courtesy of Chiao Li Hsu

Where do you draw inspiration from?
I love looking at art and nature for inspiration. We’re surrounded by so much beauty! I love going to museums or art galleries, but I hardly go anymore because of the pandemic. I can’t wait for things to return to how it used to be so we can all search for inspiration wherever we want.

“Beauty is more a feeling than anything else. When something is beautiful, you just know.”

Your looks are often a body of art. You’ve painted actual faces on models and often use complementary colors to complete your looks, did you take makeup classes or are you completely self-taught?
I actually took 16 lessons at a makeup school to learn the basics. I was taught very good classical techniques at that school, but afterward, I tried very hard to ignore the things I’d learned. To be truly creative, it’s good to have no limits as far as imagination and creativity goes but I do appreciate knowing good techniques.


Photo by Tim Walker. Model: Arca. Image courtesy of Chiao Li Hsu

What have been the biggest challenges you have faced professionally?
It took some time for me to find amazing creatives to work with. Talented people who truly love to collaborate.

What piece of advice would you give to aspiring makeup artists?
It’s so easy to learn makeup skills now from tutorials and social media. Although, it is still good to also take in-person lessons or to assist. Certain techniques cannot really be taught as well on camera and afterward take the time to develop your own style and look for like-minded people that you can collaborate with.

In two words, describe 2021?
Hope and creativity!


Photo by Rafael Pavarotti. Model: Alieth Sarah. Image courtesy of Chiao Li Hsu

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