No one would deny that New York Fashion Week: Men’s is looking a bit sparse this season, shortened to a span of just three days squeezed between Resort shows and the European menswear circuit without a tentpole brand on the calendar. But in the absence of big names, smaller labels are coming to the fore, with the presentations at New York Men’s Day kicking off the week on Monday by showcasing a variety of rising designers along with the introduction of All-Stars, a roundup of labels like Private Policy, Lucio Castro, and Descendent of Thieves that have benefited from past editions of the incubator.
Now several years in the running, NYMD finds its strength in numbers, helping to take care of many of the logistics of staging a presentation and grouping several names together, also offering a larger draw for editors, buyers, and stylists. In the morning and afternoon sessions, held in an airy studio opposite the brand-new Hudson Yards, upstarts like Qian Wu, a recent Pratt graduate debuting her first collection for Abysm, shared space with the relaunch of Timo Weiland’s label and more established names like David Hart. With everything on offer from swimwear and suiting to androgyny and innovation, the day offered up a reminder that even in a city as expensive and established as New York, new creative talent is constantly on the rise.
Images Betty Sze for models.com
Abysym by Qian Wu
Abysm by Qian Wu
Timo Weiland
Amirok by Michael Nelson
David Hart
David Hart
Feign
