Photographer:
Inez & Vinoodh Matadin
Starring: Jessica Miller/Next, Jake Chapman/Why Not(Milan),
Travis/ NY+LA Models.
The Art Director: This is for the kids, not for me or
people like me. I don't understand it. I can't relate to it.
It makes me feel old and out of it. But maybe that's the idea.
The Editor: I'm divided and here is my conflict in shorthand.
Pro: Though I frankly did not get it at first, two season
later I'm beginning to see the brilliance of choosing Jessica
as the face of the house . Such a practical beauty, a pragmatic
beauty. So common sense and American, this girl. Glimpsed
her on the streets the other day as she was dipping into the
metro. And I loved that! Still taking the metro! She's sensible!
And she truly loves to perform for the camera. You can see
it in these pictures! Another Pro. Calvin's purity, which
is in jeopardy of falling flat at a time when decoration and
layers and texture is everything in fashion right this minute,
gets a sharp prod with all this cutting up and collaging.
It's nice to play with logos. Take the sanitized, stale corporate
haze off the name. Wonderful. But here's my con. It feels
hired, this play. It feels imported and detached, as if advisors
are going "Oh Calvin, they're the hippest!". I feel
no personal passion or interest on Calvin's part. Consequently
it all just feels...adequate. Not directional.
The Agent: I like it. It's more a magazine editorial than
an actual campaign. It's a weird kind of re-mix of Richard
Avedon's 80's campaigns with Brooke Shields. It's kind of
aggressive and spooky for a label that has the really tough
job of being Middle American and Downtown at the same time.
It kind of trashes the whole cool Calvin thing. It's kind
of perverse but in a very subtle...design way as opposed to
a shock value kind of way. And if there's one guy who can
get away with that it's Calvin.
The Shop A Holic: I don't know what I'm supposed to buy
from Calvin. What's Calvin look right, what his thing right
now? Do you get the feeling he's over it all. It's cool pictures
but I don't know. Won't send me running to the store.
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