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He was a gangly yet kinetic teenager
presenting a duck tailed rock n roll quintessence two years ago in Rei Kawabuko's Commes
Des Garcons show. He presented a very dandified aspect when he tottered down the runway
for the Spring 95 Dolce Y Gabbana collection with lacquered nails, wrapped in fake fur
stole, clutching the occasional cigarette holder, appearing as a fey little rich boy
raiding mommy's couture closet. That very same season he sauntered with appropriate
detachment and ennui through a masterful Matsuda collection, giving a heavy aura of Bowie
circa. The Thin White Duke era, threatening to faint as he neared the edge of the runway.
He is the antithesis of the beefcake ideal of masculinity that became the cliché of what
a beautiful man was supposed to look like and his very appearance is provoking the kind of
passionate outcry his female counterpart caused. Kal Ruttenstein fashion emperor at
Bloomingdale issued the following decree in the New York Times "That make-up for men,
the waif fingernail polish look, is not going to make it. Its catering to one club kid in
the lowest part of Manhattan." The waif's defiantly unmuscled body in Steven Meisel's
now notorious photographs for CK jeans, earned the even more damning spew from Mohammed, a
fashion stylist from the Classic School where men are men, not insouciant androgynes.
"That's not fashion...I mean who aspires to that?." |