Giorgio
Armani: Giorgio Armani, Armani Exchange.
A/X (Milan)
When you think
"lifestyle", please remember that it was Armani who evolved this
definition of a new and urbane kind of chic. A richness without decoration,
taste without gilt. On such vision are empires built.
Husseyin
Chalayan: Husseyin Chalayan
(London), TSE (New York)
A purist
with an amazingly focused vision of how clothes can be about more than
just... fabric His Fall 2000 signature show achieved such a pinnacle of
brilliance, MOMA would be best advised to put the video in their permanent
collection. One of the few times that devalued fashion cry "genius"--
was truly earned!
Tom
Ford: Gucci (Milian), YSL
(Paris)
Ever noticed
how happy Ford seems to be when he's in the middle of a fashion frenzy? That's
because between Gucci and YSL he's living out his every last career fantasy.
Dolce
y Gabbana: Dolce y Gabbana, D&G
(Milan)
They were
devoted maximalists even in the darkest moments of that minimalist stupor
that was Late-90's fashion and that exuberance and excess will always
be welcome. More importantly, it will always make money.
John
Galliano: Dior (Paris)
The much
scandalized "Homeless" couture collection brought him from the
brink, but for a designer who seems to have six ideas going at the same
time, he certainly has stayed steady on his tightrope. He's establishment
now.
Jean
Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier,
Junior Gaultier (Paris)
Rent the "Fifth
Element". Watch the clothes very carefully. Note how it turns the movie
into one prolonged Gaultier catalog and bow to the man's genius. France's
most vital fashion legend in the post-Laurent era.
Tommy
Hilfiger: Tommy Hilfiger Collection,
Tommy Jeans (New York)
Nobody has been
shrewder in taking all the elements of youth culture's lifestyle and marketing
an image that is amazingly invigorating. The new challenge now is to grow
up with his market, a challenge that is already being addressed.
Marc
Jacobs: Marc Jacobs (New York),
Louis Vuitton (Paris)
Some designers
mainstream and promptly lose their edge. Others like Jacobs embrace the joys
of status and find out that is where they've always belonged. If any American
is going to be the next Calvin, it's him.
Donna
Karan: Donna Karan Collection,
DKNY (New York)
She built her
empire by servicing the needs of the urban working woman, then took her on
the current spiritual odyssey but most of all Karan's audacity in welding
her DK to NY proves that she has a very clear idea on how to build a brand.
Don't underestimate her.
Rei
Kawabuko: Commes des Garcons
(Paris)
She pioneered
the idea of mass market fashion as art and to this day she consistently redefines
that territory. Often times ignored in the cult worship is the beauty of the
brutal discipline she brought to the oft-times indulgent world of fashion.
A legend in her time.
Calvin
Klein: Calvin Klein Collection,
CK, (New York)
It's almost
as if in the face of the post-poned sale of his empire he has been reinspired.
But frankly, a shock free Calvin is not much fun anyway. His Fall 2000
CK ads promise to return to his former throne as "King Of Mass Market
Edge".
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