Giorgio Armani: Giorgio Armani, Armani Exchange. A/X (Milan)

When you think "lifestyle", please remember that it was Armani who evolved this definition of a new and urbane kind of chic. A richness without decoration, taste without gilt. On such vision are empires built.

 

Husseyin Chalayan: Husseyin Chalayan (London), TSE (New York)

A purist with an amazingly focused vision of how clothes can be about more than just... fabric His Fall 2000 signature show achieved such a pinnacle of brilliance, MOMA would be best advised to put the video in their permanent collection. One of the few times that devalued fashion cry "genius"-- was truly earned!

 

Tom Ford: Gucci (Milian), YSL (Paris)

Ever noticed how happy Ford seems to be when he's in the middle of a fashion frenzy? That's because between Gucci and YSL he's living out his every last career fantasy.

 

Dolce y Gabbana: Dolce y Gabbana, D&G (Milan)

They were devoted maximalists even in the darkest moments of that minimalist stupor that was Late-90's fashion and that exuberance and excess will always be welcome. More importantly, it will always make money.

 

John Galliano: Dior (Paris)

The much scandalized "Homeless" couture collection brought him from the brink, but for a designer who seems to have six ideas going at the same time, he certainly has stayed steady on his tightrope. He's establishment now.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier, Junior Gaultier (Paris)

Rent the "Fifth Element". Watch the clothes very carefully. Note how it turns the movie into one prolonged Gaultier catalog and bow to the man's genius. France's most vital fashion legend in the post-Laurent era.

 

Tommy Hilfiger: Tommy Hilfiger Collection, Tommy Jeans (New York)

Nobody has been shrewder in taking all the elements of youth culture's lifestyle and marketing an image that is amazingly invigorating. The new challenge now is to grow up with his market, a challenge that is already being addressed.

 

Marc Jacobs: Marc Jacobs (New York), Louis Vuitton (Paris)

Some designers mainstream and promptly lose their edge. Others like Jacobs embrace the joys of status and find out that is where they've always belonged. If any American is going to be the next Calvin, it's him.

 

Donna Karan: Donna Karan Collection, DKNY (New York)

She built her empire by servicing the needs of the urban working woman, then took her on the current spiritual odyssey but most of all Karan's audacity in welding her DK to NY proves that she has a very clear idea on how to build a brand. Don't underestimate her.

 

Rei Kawabuko: Commes des Garcons (Paris)

She pioneered the idea of mass market fashion as art and to this day she consistently redefines that territory. Often times ignored in the cult worship is the beauty of the brutal discipline she brought to the oft-times indulgent world of fashion. A legend in her time.

 

Calvin Klein: Calvin Klein Collection, CK, (New York)

It's almost as if in the face of the post-poned sale of his empire he has been reinspired. But frankly, a shock free Calvin is not much fun anyway. His Fall 2000 CK ads promise to return to his former throne as "King Of Mass Market Edge".

 

 

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