Micheal Kors: Micheal Kors (New York), Celine (Paris)

If luxury and status is the new thing its certainly been the thing that Micheal Kors believed in all along. That unwavering belief in the Clean + Easy + Rich principle that is American style, makes him the heir to Bill Blass' legacy.

 

Christian LaCroix: Christian LaCroix, Bazaar, Lacroix Jeans (Paris)

Now that the 80's has reared its ugly head again, wouldn't it be great if Lacroix revived those hilarious poof skirts. He is who he is and the pendulum has swung right back in his direction.

 

Karl Lagerfeld: Chanel (Paris), Fendi (Milan)

His signature nonchalance depreciates what is an astonishing talent for modern fashion. Restless prolific and brutally efficient. Lagerfeld is one of the greatest design talents of modern times.

 

Ralph Lauren: Ralph Lauren Collection, Polo Jeans, Polo Sport, Chaps (New York)

He's not into the easy drama of trends and scandal, but he more than makes up for that in market savvy. He knows his audience and his audience certainly knows him. For decades now he has been the American designer who sets the marketing agenda.

 

Helmut Lang: Helmut Lang (New York)

The avant-garde blowouts of the past are long gone and Lang is making an interesting transition into a new era where money matters and sales volume is everything. Can afford to coast given the fact that he singlehandedly revamped the entire fashion calender.

 

Martin Margiela: Martin Margiela, Hermes (Paris)

See! You can experiment with fashion and get away with it. For more than a decade Margiela's intelligence and aloof dignity has made him the Emperor of that Conceptualist niche. Love that jagged, blank label of his.

 

Stella McCartney: Chloe (Paris)

Despite early criticism, persistent rumors and eternal skepticism, the fact is she is a born designer. Her clothes are right on the mark for that new breed of outrageous retro chic that city kids rock these days. She's a fixture.

 

Alexander McQueen: Alexander McQueen, McQueen's (London), Givenchy (Paris)

You know what's brilliant about Alexander McQueen? Despite the heat and the pressure, he dismantled Givenchy and made it his while advancing his own brand. With a sensibility so potent, it's almost offensive, it's amazing how fast and furious his rise has been.

 

Miuccia Prada: Prada, Miu-Miu (Milan)

She is without doubt the most influential commercial designer in fashion today, with a point of view that is challenging, trend setting, and consistently market perfect. And in the face of that success, Prada seems hell bent on further expansion. Will to power is not be underestimated.

 

Yves St Laurent: Yves St Laurent Couture (Paris)

A legacy this amazing can withstand the hazards of time. Already a new generation has seized up YSL as being the defining brand for decadent chic.

 

Valentino: Valentino, V (Milan)

Bored trophy wives, vain superstars, precocious young socialites: for more than three decades they have had a uniform and the uniform reads Valentino. This man has nothing left to prove and that's why his work is so right.

 

Donatella Versace: Atlier Versace, Versace, Versus (Milan)

The Versace line isn't as crazy as it used to be, but there is no denying that it is rich with a sick, seductive attitude. Love her for perhaps the bitchiest fashion quote of all time: "I don't want people's sympathy. I have my own sympathy".

 

Junyo Watanabe: Junyo Watanabe (Paris)

A man of ideas in a medium where ideas seem to exist to be instantly copied and mass marketed, Watanabe emerged in the late 90's as one of fashion's most rigorous thinkers. Set to explode in the future.

 

Yohji Yamamoto: Yohji Yamamoto, Y's, Yohji Yamamoto Homme Plus (Paris)

Collection after collection, he makes jaws drops with a creative generosity that makes him incredibly influential well beyond his sales volume. A precise man, with an incredible versatility, his work is living history. Should you get casted by him, collapse immediately from sheer ecstasy.

 

To Part 2 - The Photographers >>