Designers: David Neville & Marcus Wainwright
New York Fashion Week got off to an early start of sorts on Tuesday, with a Rag & Bone men’s show that offered a clean, spot-on selection of contemporary classics with a bit of Fifties flair. Designers David Neville & Marcus Wainwright have pointed time and again to the twin lodestars of the tradition of English tailoring and the vibrant energy of New York street style as the dual starting points of their design process. For Fall 2014, that meant Félix Gesnouin’s high-waisted, pleated trousers paired with a soft work shirt, Laurie Harding‘s sturdy shearling coat, and Jacob Morton‘s pitch-perfect trench. There was a vintage appeal to the loose bowling shirts, like Race Imboden’s in bright pearl with a contrast collar, but the collection hit the young, urban, modern sweet spot that Rag & Bone has made so comfortably its own over the past few years. Neville and Wainwright eschewed the complicated backstories and overwrought “inspirations” of many other designers, instead turning out clothes that felt easy and were highly covetable. It would be hard to argue with perfectly precise pieces like Ian Sharp‘s cable-knit sweater or Jeroen Smits‘ sharp bomber jacket, even if they were perhaps not as adventurous as some of the label’s previous exercises. Still, as the guys—and a handful of girls—loped by the projected images and short videos of themselves all dressed up and looking ineffably at-home on the Meatpacking District’s busy side streets, it was easy to see why people keep returning to the brand for staples again and again.
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